mueller dress shirt

[Dana89]

Hi, my boyfriend and I drafted a pattern for a dress shirt for him from the new edition of "fundamentals menswear" (https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/fundamentals-menswear/).

we added ease for a regular fit (8 cm to half chest) and constructed the sleeve cup height with 1/3 of arm syce circumference minus 5 cm. the collar is the kent collar. we also sewed darts in the back.

when drafting the collar, we were a little bit confused because we are not sure how to measure. the measurement chart for his chest width (104) has a neck measurement- 41, and a neckline measurement- 44.5.
can anyone explain the two measurements?
first we tried 41 but it was much to small so ended up using 44.5 which was better.

we would really appreciate your opinion about-
1. the over all fit
2. the length of the sleeve. are they too long?
3. do you think the sleeves are too wide? is there too muck fabric under the arm? should we make the sleeve cup height a bit longer? or is it normal to look like that for a regular sleeve?

Thank you!!!

[peterle]

The neck measure is the body measure around the neck of the person.
The neckline measure is the measure of the neckline on the finished pattern. The band collar will be attached to this line and therefore has to have the same length. It has to be larger than the body measurment because it has to fit around the neck. (like an onion, the outer layer must be larger than the inner layer)

For a linnen summer shirt the sleeve width is good in my eyes. Linnen  must not be worked too tight. A tighter sleeve would also reduce the airyness of the shirt, but for your warm climate airyness is appreciated.

The sleeves could be a tad shorter and the cuffs a bit tighter for my taste. But linen shrinks, so you better wait with shortening.

[Dana89]

Thank you so much for the comment. In the old edition of fundamental menswear the draft gave the exact neck measurement (41 for a 104 chest). The draft from the new edition gives some ease, about 1-1.5 cm. So if I understand correctly, we will still have to enlarge the finished neckline a little more to achieve the necessary ease. What is the correct way to do that? (The book does not explain)

[peterle]

The 41cm of the draft are the standard proportional neck size for a 104cm chest. Probably your boyfriend has a 104cm chest but a wider neck circumference than 41cm. Measure his neck to be sure. Your pattern book probably instructs you how to take the measurement.
When it´s larger it depends on your pattern instructions: Some systems calculate the neckhole drafting from the chest width, some calculate it from the neck measure. In the latter case just redraw the neckhole using the measured neck width. The formula shoud care for the necessary ease.

[posaune]

I draft with the formula but the exact size of the neckline I get at first fitting. Do not cut the collar before. The circ of a neck says nothing about its form.  After first fitting you alter the pattern accordingly.
lg
posaune

[Dana89]

Thank you for your comments. I asked muller&sohn and this was there answer:

The neckline measurement is taken at mid-height on the neck and the neck girth ist taken at the base of neck.

Depending on how big the difference is, the neck hole can be adjusted to the collar by flatter or more pronounced curves. If this is not sufficient, the neckline must be made smaller by making smaller eases at NW + X.