Full Chest Alterations on a Man's Vest

[PGithens]

That made me laugh - the elusive standard body - you're absolutely right, it doesn't really exist...

I believe the back strip on the Burda pattern is the facing on the inside and attaches to the lining - I will double-check that.

I decided to go back to step 1 and try the unmodified Burda pattern on my husband. I removed the seam allowance around the armhole so the paper wouldn't rip and folded the darts. And I know that the paper isn't the best thing to use for a mock-up, but I figured I could start somewhere. Here are the pictures and what I found:





What I see as modifications - and please tell me if I am wrong or missing something!

• In the back photo, the top doesn't reach the middle of his back. I folded over the seam allowance.
• I also need to lower the waist by a couple inches.
• On the front, the center front of the vest at chest level is not lined up with the center of his chest (center body line). It angles out towards his arm by just about an inch.
• The bottom of the center front overlaps the center body line. It angles in and crosses his naval by about an inch.
• There's two little folds at the top. One at the neckline and one at the armhole. Those would fix the gaps.
  

This part is frustrating but also fun because it challenges me to learn what is going on with the fit.

[peterle]

The vest pattern 6871 needs the strip to complete the back pattern.

https://sewandrew.com/2018/02/16/suitable-intentions-waistcoat/

I´m sure, this will solve a lot of your fitting issues. 

[PGithens]

Holy moley!!!! You are so right!!!!!

I looked at the pattern again and indeed, there are TWO back band pieces! The one clue that I had was they tell you to cut two pieces (That's what 2x means. how did i miss that?) and the next one was the drawing where it shows how to sew the shoulder seam.



See that little picture? That is the back shoulder seam and it shows two back band pieces.....Burda patterns are brief in their wording, but once you get used to them, they are golden. As you can tell, I'm not used to them yet....

Sigh, back to the muslin again! Thank you!

[TTailor]

Something additional to consider is his height;  the pattern may be based on a shorter standard, and what the pattern is using as its standard chest and waist measurements.

Compare these to your husband's measurements.

[PGithens]

Good suggestion. He's short in height to his width, if that makes sense. He's only 5'10" and broad.

Off to find that info.....

[PGithens]

Apologies for the response delay! Decided to take a break and think about all the suggestions and start from square one.

I made a mock-up using the unmodified Burda vest pattern, and included the back back (quell surprise! it makes a difference!). I added about 3/4" to the front edges at the shoulder seam to move the back to the correct position on the back. Then to remove some extra fabric at the armhole edge, I opened up the vertical front dart a bit more. I also added a little - less than 1/2" - to the front side seams, tapering to under the arm, to straighten out the side seam. Then onto a fabric muslin and a couple tweaks to that.

On to the real fabric and I ended up having a gap at the armhole again!!! Arrrgghhh! So I eased in that 1/2" or less gap when I put in the lining and eased the front lapel edge a little bit so it was no longer wavy. When I have the buttonholes done and buttons sewn on, I'll post a picture. The buttonholes will be done by hand as usual in buttonhole silk twist. The vest is unlined in the back because this is for the summer under a suit jacket, also linen and the next project on the list.....

And THANK YOU all for the tips and suggestions and pointing out when pattern pieces are left out.....