Drafting Trousers - Recommondations?

[Petruchio]

I'm afraid this topic might have come up before, but I'm planning to start making trousers for myself. I was just wondering what drafting systems are out there and recommendable. The endgoal of what the cut should look like is a classic highwaste single pleated trousers with some slight tapering, similar to some italian makers like ambrosi, pommella and the likes. What would be a good starting point for a beginner?

[Gerry]

The most intuitive book on cutting I've come across is "How to Make Sewing Patterns" by Don McCunn. Especially when it comes to the sloper. Unlike every other book I've looked at, it doesn't present you with done-and-dusted mathematical fractions. That approach never explains why you're actually doing something. Some points may require a little re-reading, but it all makes sense in the end. And the stuff on how to fit garments is sound (and sadly lacking in most tailoring books).

Having said that, the trousers section isn't perfect. Ridiculous amounts of ease are added here there and everywhere; and the method along the crotch line is a little odd, slightly displaced the leg in my case. Plus the pivot method didn't work for me. In fact, I wouldn't recommend making a 'block' pair of trousers using the exact instructions. You'll end up with something looking like a block.

The book is a good starting point, though, and it will enable you to understand other, more cryptic, methods. Which you'll still need to study, because tailors use all sorts of tricks that aren't covered by the above publication.

Rory Duffy has a good video course on trouser making. His drafting method is pretty typical and as good as any (though do look at the above book first - I recently bought a copy for easy reference, but a free PDF of the first edition is floating around online):

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thehtatrousermaking?fbclid=IwAR2ObHNSzMRuALYgQZSJLiTPrlGztmXJ7ZM82m2gk3HgIXNZvXImlx5XiMo

PDF of his method here:

https://c234d96c-1924-4fb6-be2d-9ff9bf65e28b.filesusr.com/ugd/cea53d_c9b2f61bfedc43729b78ee4410486440.pdf

[Petruchio]

Thanks Gerry, to be honest the Rory Duffy Course is the reason I want to give it a shot 

Out of interest I watched the drafting video included in his course and I just want to have something with a little more extensive information on the drafting and fitting process to read a long with the video series. I will definetly give the McCunn Book a try, sounds very promising.

On a different note: Does anybody know the modern Rundschau draft? Is it worth investing in their trouser book?

[Gerry]

You've probably taken a look already, but Rory also has a video on fitting and some of the issues you'll perhaps encounter.

Classic Tailoring Techniques (the menswear edition) by Cabrera, also has some excellent info/diagrams re fitting. And although a little archaic, there's some general stuff on modifying drafts for different 'figurations' in Thornton's International System (PDF is online).

McCunn's book has some stuff on fitting trousers, but it's mostly about how (and why) to use darts to shape material. Still invaluable, because many tailors I've seen appear to adjust everything except darts once they're sewn on a pair of trousers. They're given little thought, it seems.

[TTailor]

On a different note: Does anybody know the modern Rundschau draft? Is it worth investing in their trouser book?

I would imagine the modern version is low rise style, but maybe someone else will know for sure.
There is an older version posted here somewhere.

Regarding Rory's draft, or any draft for that matter, it helps if you see the draft on a body, preferable on a number of bodies to see how the draft really looks and whether it works out of the box so to speak.

[Greger]

Does any pattern "work out of the box"?

[Greger]

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=49.0
Could try this one.
Style lines can be changed.

[Gerry]

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=49.0
Could try this one.
Style lines can be changed.

I found a nice little interview with the author of the book those patterns come from:

https://asiasociety.org/blog/asia/interview-meet-ghani-chaudry-pakistani-tailor-who-conquered-savile-row

[Greger]

Thanks for posting that.