How to make Bespoke Trousers

[Rory Duffy]

Hi All,

As promised my team and I have been busy putting together our second video series "Men's Bespoke Trouser Making - Belt Loop Style.
Just like our first video series The Making of a Savile Row Coat, this series is available by subscription on Vimeo Pro for £15 per month.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/thehtatrousermaking

As well as receiving unlimited access to all the videos, you can avail yourself of a trimming package from Dugdale Brothers and follow along with me to make a pair of bespoke trousers of your very own.

The series starts off with The Straight Leg Trouser Draft, with notes available to download. I demonstrate a step by step guide to make either a belt-loop style of low rise trouser or a brace-top trouser with side straps. The option is yours to make.

The preview to the series is free to view so you can get an idea of what the series entails, should you decided not to subscribe you can still rent any video for £2 and learn key skills like shrinking and stretching the trouser legs, sewing in a zip fly or making two types of pockets, a back pocket and hip pocket and so much more.

As I have said before The HTA will be delivering a video series to cover every conceivable garment made by Savile Row Tailors and this video series is just the latest effort to fulfil that promise.

We will be starting the waistcoat making series very soon.

Just like our Savile Row Coat Making Series, the trouser series has templates you can download to make it easier to cut pattern pieces like pocket facing, fly pieces and fly guard.

Our forum is a great place to visit when you are following the series and making your bespoke garments as it gives you direct access to me for my questions or queries you may have. We have also upload more free drafting instructions taken directly from my book Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear, the Imperial System on our blog, so you will be able to make a pattern in your size.
http://handcrafttailor.com/forum

If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact me.
Regards,
Rory

[Gerry]

I rented the series last week and thoroughly enjoyed it. I learned quite a few nifty tricks, which I'll definitely be using in the future!

[Rory Duffy]

Hi Gerry,

Very pleased to hear from you and that you are enjoying the series.

My favourite part of trouser making is the shrinking and stretching with the iron. Even though there is plenty of iron work done on Coats, it seems to matter more with trousers to get the fit right.

Don't forget to pick you your trimming package and get started on making a pair of your own.

Regards,
Rory

[Gerry]

My favourite part of trouser making is the shrinking and stretching with the iron. Even though there is plenty of iron work done on Coats, it seems to matter more with trousers to get the fit right.

That bit of the series was really interesting. I've only ever seen snippets of traditional tailors doing this, and even then there was no explanation.

Having only made trousers from linen and cotton (so far), is this stretching technique possible with all types of wool? (tight weave, for example) Or is some cloth better than others?