A few questions regarding drafting and construction of trousers

[Despos]

Very interesting method, Despos. Not sure I fully understand the relationship between the different points in your method, would be very nice if you had time to post some pictures of the draft. By fixing the seat seam angle by way of the knee notch at the inseam, what happens if you have a very wide circumference at the knee? If you always fix the ease in the seat according to the width of the trousers at the knee I guess I agree that your method would work, but say you wanted it full in the seat and very tapered toward the bottom, would that not make the seat seam straighter with a smaller knee and more crooked with a wide knee? I usually make the seat seam more crooked in a slim trouser to get enough ease for sitting and walking, but can make it straighter and more clean fitting in the seat area in a wide trouser

Just placed the ruler on the back pattern and increased at the knee .5", it made the seat 1/8" bigger. Increased 1" at the knee notch and it made the seat 1/4" bigger. Not a significant amount to me. Reduced at the knee the same amounts and the seat changed/reduced by the same amounts.
If you want a base to work from, make the knee 1/2 of the seat measure. 40"" seat would have a 20" knee. 44" seat has a 22" knee. 38" seat has a 19" knee. Use this to draft the seat line then change the knee measure to whatever you like.
If you do this, it still won't make a big change to the seat measure.
There were questions of how to find the angle of the seat seam in this thread and I just wanted to share another way to find it. There are always exceptions or nuance to consider for various body types and proportions. This is not "the" way just "another way".

[TTailor]

There were questions of how to find the angle of the seat seam in this thread and I just wanted to share another way to find it. There are always exceptions or nuance to consider for various body types and proportions. This is not "the" way just "another way".

Isn't that the truth!
Sometimes people are looking for the only way. Seems like there should be one, especially the way the information in books is presented.

Some of this just comes with practice, repetition, combined with being open to seeing alternatives.

[Schneiderfrei]

Love your analytical method Despos. What a great way tosee this issue.

[Greger]

Pattern systems in books and elsewhere are for beginners to get started. Experience teaches the eye at the fittings to see what the pattern doesn't produce.

[Hendrick]

It may not be "the way", it worked fine for me!  Thanks again Despos!

[TSjursen]

There were questions of how to find the angle of the seat seam in this thread and I just wanted to share another way to find it. There are always exceptions or nuance to consider for various body types and proportions. This is not "the" way just "another way".

Absolutely, the more I learn the more I appreciate the fact that there are so many different ways to get to the same result. I think that there is a tendency in some cutting books to overcomplicate things and present one solution as the one correct method. After all, when the difference is only 1/8" in practice it can hardly have a detrimental effect. The real complexity I think lies in really understanding what goes on in different methods and how to translate the lines on a pattern to the desired end result. I'm still far from mastery on that point for sure, and always keen to see how others do things in order to learn more. Again, really appreciate you posting here!

[LindyBalboa]

Most everything has been covered here. The one thing I have to add is how to fold the slant pocket back down out of the way of the waistband. In Rory Duffy's course he makes a vertical cut on the inner pocket bag piece (the one closest to the leg panel) 1 or 2 cm in from the fold down to just above the pocket facing. The outside pocket back (visible form the inside) can then be folded down. If you want a more clear explanation, I could recommend checking out his course. You really do get a ton of information for just 15 bucks. This part is shown in video 14 about halfway through.

[Greger]

Since Despos wrote here and I saw this link about him I thought I'd post it. in this post there is another link about his tailoring.
https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/chris-despos-bespoke-tailor-chicago/
Enjoy!

[SO_tailor]

I know I'm late on this, but it seems like the GG has deleted the article with no explanation to exactly why. A bit worrying.