Hand-sewn button holes for trousers?

[Gerry]

If one were to hand-sew a buttonhole for a waistband button above a trouser fly, what would be the best way to do it? I'm imagining that silk and gimp isn't going to take well to continuous wear-and-tear ... plus it might look pretentious?

I don't yet have the skill to do this (I use hooks and bars in my waistbands), but I do want to incorporate a button into future pairs of trousers .. so I might as well get some practice in the meantime.

Note: I can't do this by machine because the zig-zag width knob on my vintage Bernina (my mother's old machine) is jammed solid. The repair guy who serviced it couldn't shift it; and implied that the cost of stripping the machine to fix the problem would be prohibitively expensive (I could probably buy a new machine).

[Schneiderfrei]

This what digital cameras were made for.  You photograph every step as you delve into the workings of your machine.  Pretty soon you realise that yu've been paying too much for the service that you used to get.

There's lots of material on the web, especially youtube.

G

[Schneiderfrei]

Also, check this out.  I put it in the forum about a year ago.

There is a lot of stuff in here already.  The search function is quite good.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=676

G

[peterle]

For those who are into old machines, it´spretty much clear that a long term unused machine has frozen parts due to gummed up old oil. Especially the zig zag mechanism. With a bit of heat, patience and solvent it usually can be brought to working again. Those old Berninas (record and favorit) are quite worth the time, very good machines made for eternity.

But to answer your initial question: Handmade buttonholes are quite sturdy also for waistbands. Buttonhole silk is usually made of schappe silk, spun shorter silk fibres. It´s smoothness helps to get a nice result. But when in doubt, you also can use the poly buttonhole thread. Usually you won´t have the choice, buttonhole silk is not easy to get meanwhile, and for washable trousers you shouldn´t use silk anyway, because it doesn´t stand the washing lye.

It´s not too pretentious (I would be irritaded when sombody stares below my belly button and comments my elitist button hole, and I hope, that the few people, who are supposed to come that near to my buttonhole, will love me in spite of my elitist button hole)

[Gerry]

Thanks for all your replies folks.

Schneiderfrei, I obviously didn't phrase my question well (my apologies). I'm aware of the various stitches etc. I've also watched videos on how to make handmade buttonholes. The problem is, they're all for lapel and sleeve buttonholes. Pardon my naivety, but they seem a bit ornamental for everyday wear? Hence my question.

I read somewhere (probably misinformation) that Milanese buttonholes aren't as strong, structurally. So should I do a gimp and silk job? Or is that just asking for trouble? Would the hole be stronger without the gimp? (that's my real question).

Peterle, re the stuck zig-zag knob.. Yes, I'm aware of the causes of the problem. It's a well known fault of Bernina models from the 1960s. My repair guy was also aware of the cause. The knob simply won't shift. And a soldering iron was taken to the shaft to heat it. Nothing. I can still get default settings of full zig and half zig, but the latter is still too big for a buttonhole.

[Schneiderfrei]

You don't have to use Gimp.

But you can use some linen thread. It won't bulk up too much.

G

[peterle]

Well, the point was less the Schappe than to show that smooth silk is the best material for a beautiful button hole.

And as for the washing: a silk buttonhole in cotton or linnen trousers won´t stand very long, because the usual detergents for these materials include protein solving enzymes. Not the best treatment for a protein fibre.
Of course one can use silk for a woolen garment, as the same detergent can be used for these fibres.

And I´m glad for everyone who can get buttonhole silk easily in his area. In my town all the shops discontinued silken buttonhole thread over the years except one.

[Gerry]

Thanks MukPuk, double threaded seems the right way to go for now. I'll progress on to using gimp and use it according to garment requirements (gimp would probably be a little excessive for the casual wear I'm making at the moment).

I'll also try the kerosene trick, thanks. It's not just the zig-zag width that was the issue, the selection knob was also jammed to the shaft. The repair guy rightly stated that if he attempted to remove it by force, to get to the shaft, it would shatter. He didn't want to be accused of ruining my machine. With nothing to lose, I forced it, it shattered and no amount of heating the shaft (started with a hairdryer, ended with a soldering iron) would fix the problem. Fingers crossed kerosene works (I can cobble together grub-screw knobs for the shaft if it works).

Schneiderfrei, thanks for the linen thread idea. I take it that linen thread is slightly thicker than conventional? (is this why you suggested it?).

[Schneiderfrei]

I did intend a thicker linen thread, such as you would find in a leather supply shop.

[Gerry]

OK Schneiderfrei, got it. That's an excellent idea, thanks!

[Gerry]

MukPuk, it's a Bernina 700, purchased in 1964. This is its current state (note the chipped paint from forcing the knob - the repair guy was right).

[Gerry]

Thanks MukPuk. No problem if you can't find a knob. Rather than buying a new sewing machine, I spent my money on an over-locker, so I rarely use zig-zag (and when I do, the default widths usually suffice).

I can get by with hand-stitching if need be (plus I want to learn how to do buttonholes by hand). 

[Gerry]

MukPuk, it's just a Bernina L450, intended for domestic use. Unfortunately I don't have the floorspace for industrial machines (not in my tiny flat!). All that stuff comes with a table, or requires one, and there isn't room.

For the same reason, I'm limited with respect to what I would buy as a replacement for my Bernina sewing machine. After servicing, it runs smoothly, though the straight-stitch isn't the best I've seen.

There's a company in the UK that reconditions old singers (they come with a certificate for electrical compliance etc). All reasonably priced. I've heard that the singer 201k has a great straight stitch, can handle thick material and its footprint is manageable. No zig zag though?

I've only recently been using zig-zag. For the cut seams of welts: giving them an additional stitching, to help prevent fraying. Tried overlocking, but it's just too tight.

And yes, I will be practising my buttonholes in the near future! 

[Gerry]

I'll make another post on the choice of suitable sewing machines in the next few days. Since it doesn't concern only you, I think it might be beneficial for rather a lot of people here.

Cool!

[Greger]

Today I was looking at some twine for commercial fishing. It was braided. Didn't want to buy that much. Nor, pay that amount. This twine would be for the purpose of gimp. One method is four cord, which tailors make. Some tailors use a couple of strands of silk. Real gimp is nice, but some places I'd rather use something softer.
Recently I bought a pair of jeans. The button holes are cheaply made. I'll rip out the factory button hole thread. Jeans are cotton denim. I have some cheap black thread around here which I'll use for gimp replacement, two strands. I'll also use two strands in place of silk for the button hole. I don't remember how long of thread I need.  So, I will cut a 100 inch length- 50 inch on the double. The threads will be parallel to each knot. They look better (my opinion). When finished the button hole will out last the jeans and still look brand new. Far stronger than the machined one.