What is up with my collar stands?

[krudsma]

Hi all,
I've made three shirts so far and on each one, the collar stand has this irritating "roll" or fold outward:



Here's how it looks when the shirt is worn:


Here's the pattern pieces for two of the shirts:

Striped shirt:


Yellow oxford:


Did I just not interface the stands enough? Is it something to do with the angle they join one another? Does it have to do with "spring"?

Anxious to hear the thoughts of the group (especially DPC, if he still hangs out here). I don't want to move forward on any other shirts until I figure this out. Thanks for any and all suggestions!

[Schneiderfrei]

Firstly, just to put you in the picture krudsma, DPC passed away only a couple of weeks ago.  He is sadly missed.

[krudsma]

I'm devastated to hear that. I reference his books and videos constantly. What a tragic loss. Thanks for letting me know.

[peterle]

Does this phenomenon also occure whith the stand alone, i.e. without the attached collar? If not, I would say the outer edge of the top collar is too short and pulls back the stand to compensate the missing length.

When it also occurs with the stand alone, the stands have to get curvier. Pinch the  upper edge of the stand when fitting and transfer it to the pattern.

[krudsma]

Thanks peterle, I'll remove the collar from one of the shirts and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, is this the adjustment you're suggesting?

[peterle]

Essentially yes, but you have to get the curve much smoother.  Avoid kinks, more slashes give better curves.

An tip you didn´t aks for: I like to have my collar and stand patterns complete, not just one halve. I do them in sturdy paper, so I can use them as templates. It´s much more precise and easier to place on patterned fabrics.

[krudsma]

That's good advice, I will definitely be doing that on the next project. Thanks!

[spookietoo]

Is it just me, or could there be something going on with the shoulder seams that is adding to the collar problem? I'm seeing diagonal pulls from upper chest to shoulders on both sides - an overly erect posture perhaps or square shoulders? Can't quite tell with the picture.

[Schneiderfrei]

Can we see a few shots of your posture please krudsma?

In a t-shirt; Front, Back, Left side and Right side.

No identifying features necessary.

G

[Petruchio]

Is it just me, or could there be something going on with the shoulder seams that is adding to the collar problem? I'm seeing diagonal pulls from upper chest to shoulders on both sides - an overly erect posture perhaps or square shoulders? Can't quite tell with the picture.

I think this could be also due to the fact that he is probably holding the camera in front of him. To be honest in addition to what peterle advised, I think it may also has to do with the interlining or a lack thereof. What did you use and have you tried to go for a heavier interlining or some reinforcement on the tip of the stand?

[spookietoo]

If you're taking photos with your phone, it's important to learn to use the timer to take selfies. When you do so, your phone becomes one of your best fitting aids - until then, photos are problematic.

[Greger]

When you sewed the shoulder seam did you sew into neck seam allowance?