Heavy Winter Overcoats

[Steelmillal]

Winter here in North America and thoughts of warm are omnipresent. Here's a few pics for inspiration and thought. Plus I was just told yesterday that Lovat has 900grm "Brig" in stock.






And one from the era few ever see..



For sleeves..

[Hendrick]

The military coats worn by the Russian guards at the red square are made in a wool that is a whopping 1,4 kg per running meter...


It is made in Italy by Beccherucci...

[Schneiderfrei]

This is a pleasant facebook page to be a member of:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/137241563337471

[TTailor]

That facebook page is a rabbithole!

[Steelmillal]

Greetings Schneiderfrei. Nice site; ran away quickly. A sewing machine warren I don't need. Da shears are bad enough, and I'm weak!

[Steelmillal]

Greetings Hendrick. I looked for and found:

https://www.europages.co.uk/LANIFICIO-BECHERUCCI-SRL/SEAC000059216-001.html ..but the link is kaput. I'll keep searching...

https://www.europages.co.uk/companies/Italy/Manufacturer%20producer/pg-2/woollen%20fabrics.html  ..this came up and will be sifted..

[Schneiderfrei]

Ha ha ha.

[Steelmillal]

Happy Monday Y'all! Gonna be a balmy -9C tomorrow night so thought to add a bit more to this thread. I am considering a dissection of a vintage ww2 trench coat I've had for years, but remains TBD. It was last worn by my son more than a decade ago and he complained he was too hot on a sunny, February day with air temps at, no foolin', minus 20C. These items are in line with the era.
.
First, item links posted many moons ago. You must cut n paste into Wayback Machine to read them, as of this entry, their engine is sputtering a bit. It was just fine and it's all still there.

http://web.archive.org/web/20150919125402/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2641
http://web.archive.org/web/20150906201703/http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1227

The following photos were captured from the web, and while not the best, they are period correct for the era my coat is from:

[TTailor]

We have a number of vintage military great coats at work, and no kidding, they are heavy weight!
I was going to say bulletproof, but no, they cloth is so dense I can imagine them being too hot at -20.

By dissection you don't mean to unstitch it do you? (Please say no )
It is great to document vintage clothes though. Its really informative to see the real thing along with the drafts!

[Steelmillal]

Guess I better put down the cleaver!    I'll post the detail photos I have soon. I'll also pull other inspiration items I have and try to find similar drafts to match. Fit and warmth is key to the cause of this. A nice blue on blue something tweed with a good proportion of cashmere and overchecks would be nice, maybe, too..

By memory(since corrected), the top coat fabric weight was 32oz, the jacket/trouser boiler suit was 20oz, the shirt was 7.5oz wool flannel, and 26oz jerkin liners, all worsted and some waterproofed by a method as yet unknown..  That's a lot of wool when soldiers had field gear, ordinance, et al., to carry with proper hobnail boots on. I'll get back into the old forum archive I saved and try to find what Sator published for other civilian drafts. I also stumbled on a Swedish "grown on" undersleeve adaptation I like very much. It looks like lining material...




The back pockets would be great for my Grand Tour iff this lockdown ever lifts.

I found this entry with photos pulled from the same source as the drafts I posted before.
http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=552.msg4347#msg4347

[Steelmillal]

Continuing with this with posts from item not mine, but similar, and a few inspiration drawings.. The clavicle darts are great.

The first three are a classic tunic that can be found in MTOC, the fourth and fifth are very much like my overcoat, the back belt detail being identical.











The next is a current shelf item back detail. The belt reinforcement is nice.



I really like the dbl pleat treatment on the blue coat allowing walking ease without needing great coat closure buttons for wind blocking. Nothing like uncontrolled sub-zero back-side breezes.

[hutch--]

I remember owning an ex army great coat back in the 1970 and it helped me to survive a very cold winter here in Sydney, nothing like the temperatures you guys get in the snow but we occasionally get winter weather blown up from Antarctica and you can die from hypothermia if you are in the wrong place without enough of the right clothing.

I do remember riding about 50 miles out of Sydney on a motorbike in the middle of winter where the temperature was just above zero and the chill factor was so cold that I had to stop, take my gloves off and thaw my hands out on the engine finning. Even dressed like the Michelin man, hypothermia was a real risk.

[Schneiderfrei]

That's an aberration in Australia, where you could be reasonably confident to get around in stubbies (shorts) and t-shirt 365 days of the year.

[Steelmillal]

Zip it Skippy! You've beasties down there with stings that'll ruin yer whole week. Plus, I'd miss the Fall colour run. Minus`4degC tonight and 60cm of snow on the ground... and we grow the most amazing tasting apples in the Upper Peninsula for it, so there's that..   


Schneiderfrei, have you done anything with Libeco linen? Y'all got the climate for it for sure. I'm wanting to get some delivered if this lockdown doesn't get lifted before mid0summer.

[Steelmillal]

hypothermia was a real risk.

Lofty layers is the key to survival, for sure. For high wind conditions, I've been lookin for sustainable leather suppliers, but it's a real maze. And only small K-leather guy I found lost his tannery source. Everyone is super tight lipped with vertical supply line structures.. Maybe change soon...