Author Topic: Soft construction  (Read 168 times)

Terry Krause

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Soft construction
« on: January 13, 2021, 06:31:12 AM »
Hi everyone, I was hoping anybody would have information or could point me in the direction of construction methods for soft and lightweight coats. I've recently been impressed by how well some sit with such little in it.

Thank you all

Adriel

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Re: Soft construction
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2021, 03:16:25 AM »
I watched "Making of a Coat" ages ago, toughly informative and enjoyable, maybe of some use in this endeavor of yours?

Terry Krause

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Re: Soft construction
« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2021, 05:53:34 PM »
Thank you Adriel!

I do remember seeing Rory's video a while back and must revisit it. I think my question might've been too vague, Ive been looking more into the Italian methods and cutting system without much luck.

Trawling through the old forum and here I have found an old draft


The tailors tips videos


And mention of one book l'art del taglio
Actually finding them has been harder (New Zealand is so far away, and, we funnily enough do not speak Italian)

I think I will have to make a trip to the Neapolitan tailor in Auckland, and will post back with any info I find.






TTailor

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Re: Soft construction
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2021, 12:30:13 AM »
Quote
Hi everyone, I was hoping anybody would have information or could point me in the direction of construction methods for soft and lightweight coats. I've recently been impressed by how well some sit with such little in it.

Well, I think much depends on the fabric you choose, but also the structure inside the coat.
The structure of the chest canvas makes a difference. Perhaps using a lighter weight hair canvas/hymo, eliminate the horsehair layer in the chest is one way to achieve a softer look

Greger

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Re: Soft construction
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2021, 04:42:16 AM »
The old site had something about placing the canvas different ways. One method on the bias i believe worked best. I don't think another canvas was included. Maybe domette felt. Linen canvas is probably best. There might be a reason to run the canvas over the shoulder 2-4 inches down the back armholes. One purpose of the chest piece is so that the garment doesn't take to much of the persons chest shape there. If you put it in it needs to be big enough and not more. And not to many pad stitches, but enough to do the job. I think I would try a tear shape starting 3-4 inches below the shoulders, a couple of inches below the nipples, maybe 6-8 inches at the widest, and on a different bias. It depends on flexibility and what shape holding is desirable. Every tailor has their own opinion of what achievement is.
Maurice Sedwel and Anderson & Sheppard believe do soft construction methods.