Author Topic: Trouser draft - discussions  (Read 236 times)

TTailor

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Trouser draft - discussions
« on: April 01, 2020, 08:52:42 AM »

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/grundschnitt-hose-anleitung/

This draft was recently posted, and since I have a bit of time on my hands I thought I would have a look at it and maybe draft it up.

Upon first glance, using the numbers given I noticed:
The rise is quite short 22cm not including a waistband. That is fine, so they are a more modern cut and sit lower on the body.
But
The waist to hip difference is 16 cm, which seems very shapely to apply to a lower rise modern trouser.
I can see a 16 cm difference based on the natural waist measurement, which I imagine would sit higher on the body.
If the rise is lowered then I would expect to see the waist size increase as the waist is lower on the body.

Maybe I am missing something?


peterle

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Re: Trouser draft - discussions
« Reply #1 on: April 01, 2020, 09:56:08 PM »
The instructions lack the definition of the side length. Usually ( in the Rundschau system) the side length is measured to the top of the pelvis bone at the side and when a low rise is desired it would be cropped afterwards in the pattern. So maybe the 22cm is just the natural  body measurment?( side length -crotch length) When I look in my (older) Rundschau books the rise differs from 22cm to 25cm. Allthough 22cm are on the low side, it seems they are within the natural range.
« Last Edit: April 02, 2020, 12:58:49 AM by peterle »