Author Topic: My latest trouser - lots of pictures  (Read 1940 times)

peterle

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #15 on: March 17, 2020, 11:20:59 PM »
Ok I see. That´s more or less what I thought you´ve done. The right method to incorporate the crease is much simpler but more reliyable:
After drafting the plain trouser slash your top trouser pattern along the center line from the waist to the knee line (for wider trousers to the hemline). Then slash the knee line towards the seams but keep pivot points uncut at the seamlines. Now pivot this parts evenly so the gap at the waistline is as wide as you want your pleat to be (usually 3cm. Your 2" are very wide) (a modern trouser draft would have a front dart of 2cm so you would open the gap only for the missing 1cm). Fix it by glueing a strip of paper under the gap. Make the paper protrude a little at the waistline. Now fold the pleat close all the way down to the knee. With your tracing wheel copy the waistline to the (tripled) paper.



The dart looked bigger in the first pics. 3cm is ok. Length and form depends on the form of the individual body in this area and the trouser model. As a rule of thumb it must end a bit above the widest part of the butt and is located more or less centered between side seam and back seam. You can play with it when fitting. You could also consider wether it is better in a striped fabric to make the dart center line parallel to the stripes.

Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #16 on: March 18, 2020, 05:19:44 AM »
Once again, thanks for all your input and extra eyes, I really makes a difference to me.

The Eyelet and the button placement were off. I have resew the buttons and the eyelet and this gives a slight improvement.

I can definitely see that there is some twisting going on though.
I could try and cheat and give the inside of the pleat a bit of a stretch, but the proper way to solve this would be to take out the buttonhole part and resew it with no twisting this time  :D Something to be aware of the next time around.

Before and After side by side. Slight improvement noticeable. Sry for the bad quality picture.


Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #17 on: March 18, 2020, 05:29:40 AM »
So laying out the pleats rather like this?

Left to right
1st is flat front pattern
2nd is flatfront spread open, and "retraced" to make new pattern
3rd is pleat folded
4th is pattern closed

Is this the correct way?

Does this work the same for forward and reverse pleats?
And which line becomes the new grain line? original centre line or redraw (depending on forward of reverse pleat) from the new waistline to the hem down in a straight line?


peterle

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2020, 06:44:20 AM »
Yes, this is the correct way. Just to make it clear, you use the pattern with the fold opened. the closing is just for copying the waistline.
It works for forward and backwards pleats. (Waistline will change when you do a backwards pleat).
The new centerline will be a straight line from the center hem point to the point on the waistline you want to lie on top ( i.e. the point nearer to the side seam for a forward pleat)

Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #19 on: March 18, 2020, 06:58:45 AM »
Yes, this is the correct way. Just to make it clear, you use the pattern with the fold opened. the closing is just for copying the waistline.
It works for forward and backwards pleats. (Waistline will change when you do a backwards pleat).
The new centerline will be a straight line from the center hem point to the point on the waistline you want to lie on top ( i.e. the point nearer to the side seam for a forward pleat)
Perfect, that makes sense. Thanks you!

Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #20 on: March 24, 2020, 03:54:02 AM »
1 last question, I am working on a flat front pattern and altering the forepart for the correct way of adding a pleat (as described earlier in this thread).

I am curious about the crease line being off centre at the knee line. In the case of my pattern it runs out about 1/2" off centre.
Is it suppose to stay that way or are there any alterations made to that?

I cannot make sense of this.

Anyone can shed some light on this matter?

peterle

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #21 on: March 25, 2020, 01:49:28 AM »
When you need a dead straight crease line (for striped materialsand fixed crease) just use the old center line from hem to waist.

I recommend to use a more modern pattern wich includes a front dart. The adaption to a front crease will then be less massive because you just have to add the missing amount to get the 3cm. It also will not have an inwards slanted fly line like your pattern wich usually is just for pronounced belly figures.

Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #22 on: March 31, 2020, 02:14:50 AM »
Anywhere I can find/purchase draft instructions for a modern trouser with the front dart?

peterle

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #23 on: March 31, 2020, 04:30:06 AM »

pfaff260

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #24 on: March 31, 2020, 07:55:22 PM »
There's also this: https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/haka-schnittkonstruktionen-hosen/ It's a very practical book wich contains all possible sorts of trousers.

TTailor

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #25 on: April 01, 2020, 08:45:18 AM »
this one even has a front crease:

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/grundschnitt-hose-anleitung/


I am going to bring this over to a new thread so we can discuss this draft.😀

Kiem

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #26 on: April 02, 2020, 05:52:27 AM »
this one even has a front crease:

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/grundschnitt-hose-anleitung/
I have actually used this draft before I started using the english draft I posted earlier in this thread. I might give this another look.

I don't see a front dart though?!? only a pleat? Or am I mistaken the pleat for a dart...

Also I found this today.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-UoNSWJJ_Q/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

This video shows the cutting of a 3 piece suit by Steven Hitchcock.
But it also shows the layout of the creaseline for a forward pleated trouser. It clearly shows the off centre crease line on a pinstripe trouser which was mentioned earlier.

TTailor

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #27 on: April 02, 2020, 09:42:07 AM »
I would like to see how the pockets on the trousers are made.

I have always put the crease on a solid striped line. I dont know about wearing out the cloth on the stripe with pressing. I think its an old tailors tale.

His shears need some adjusting to me.

pfaff260

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #28 on: April 02, 2020, 07:04:44 PM »
this one even has a front crease:

https://www.die-gewand-sammlung.at/produkt/grundschnitt-hose-anleitung/
I have actually used this draft before I started using the english draft I posted earlier in this thread. I might give this another look.

I don't see a front dart though?!? only a pleat? Or am I mistaken the pleat for a dart...

Also I found this today.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/B-UoNSWJJ_Q/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

This video shows the cutting of a 3 piece suit by Steven Hitchcock.
But it also shows the layout of the creaseline for a forward pleated trouser. It clearly shows the off centre crease line on a pinstripe trouser which was mentioned earlier.
There is a pleat. is 2 times 1 cm, not much. If you make it a dart, it has to be 0,75 cm on each side of the pleat. It works beautifully i found.

pfaff260

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Re: My latest trouser - lots of pictures
« Reply #29 on: April 02, 2020, 07:07:54 PM »


Like this. Hope it helps