Author Topic: Just caught up with this new forum  (Read 181 times)

NigelW

  • Regular Member
  • **
  • Posts: 18
  • Human Being
Just caught up with this new forum
« on: January 24, 2020, 06:12:19 PM »
Thinking about trying to make clothes about ten years ago I found a bibliography on the predecessor to this site and searched around for some of the titles, ending up with Cabrerra's book of how to put clothes together, Poole's 1927 tome on pattern cutting and David Coffin's book and shirtmaking.

Failing to read Sartor's advice elsewhere that pre-1950s drafts should be avoided like the plague I launched into a project to make a pair of trousers based on Poole.  Needless to say I just couldn't get them to fit (seven years later I finally understand why).  Shirts, once I had bought myself a sewing machine, were more successful and after a few iterations of the pattern and some practice I made some quite nice ones for myself and my wife.

I persisted with the 1920s trouser drafts however and did finally make some that fitted reasonably well without fully understanding why I had to deviate so much from the draft.  After attending a coatmaking course at Morley College in London I then had a go at making a jacket, again based on Poole.  The fit was not quite right (mainly a problem of vertical balance I now realise) but it was wearable.  I then tried, and failed twice, to make a properly fitting waistcoat.

I am currently taking tailoring classes with a local bespoke tailor with the aim of completing a three piece suit.

I also knit.  My ambition now that I am retired is to make all my own clothes.

Schneiderfrei

  • Research
  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 784
  • Resembles Human Being
Re: Just caught up with this new forum
« Reply #1 on: January 25, 2020, 01:03:34 AM »
Welcome NigelW,

Love to see some photos of your efforts.

G

Henry Hall

  • Research
  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 659
  • A very small jeff
Re: Just caught up with this new forum
« Reply #2 on: January 25, 2020, 04:31:23 AM »
That's some dedication to Poole.
‘Being perfectly well-dressed gives one a tranquillity that no religion can bestow.’ - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

Greger

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 285
  • Experienced Professional
Re: Just caught up with this new forum
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2020, 09:48:21 AM »
The old tailors said it took a lot of stretching and shrinking to get clothes to fit. When done by an expert they are gorgeous clothes. They used inlays out of need. A well crafted crooked coat is, I think, incredible. Straight cuts are rather basic (and boring).
When cloth is woven it is flat. Hopefully the warp and weft are 90 degrees (otherwise, don't buy the cloth). When the cloth is shaped with an iron it fits around the person, and hangs better. It also moves better with the person's movements.
So, it is resetting the weave from flat to curved as the body needs it.

JoJo Remeny

  • Guest
Re: Just caught up with this new forum
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2020, 12:46:33 PM »
Hi I'm a new member just joined I was a member of the cutter and tailor but it seems to have been neglected and many links do not work so decided to join this forum..
I'm a fashion designer bin Birmingham England.
I have also trained in Tailoring and am fortunate to have been trained by 4 Tailors...
I have a fashion and Tailoring shop in Birmingham and I  make Bespoke suits with the help of my 2 retired Tailors..One is a Cypriot tailor who is nearly 92 years young ..He is still cutting jackets for me and my customers.
I  have been learning the old traditional methods from him including hand stitched buttonholes and full canvas suits.
My other retired Tailor was a trouser tailor for 55 years and taught me how to make Bespoke trousers..

My 91 years old Cypriot tailor won Savile Row cutter and tailor exhibition in 1957.
I'm so fortunate to have him in my shop still teaching me his way if cutting and making jackets..
I teach draping, dressmaking,pattern cutting and teach Bespoke waistcoat and trousers courses at my shop besides making dresses and alterations for customers..
I will put videos up of my work on here .
You can add me  on Facebook and Instagram and see my Tailoring.
Look forward to contributing on here and learn from other Tailors...Every tailor has their own system of cutting and making up suits,do look forward to seeing different methods. 
You never stop learning until the day you hang up your shears!!!
Thanks
JoJo Remeny

NigelW

  • Regular Member
  • **
  • Posts: 18
  • Human Being
Re: Just caught up with this new forum
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2020, 05:11:43 PM »
Until I started thinking hard about how to get clothes to fit I had no idea that people with the same measurements could have such differently shaped bodies and that understanding these differences and how to adjust for them was key to bespoke tailoring.  I have a long way to go still but feel I am finally starting to get somewhere.

My own problems of getting off-the-peg clothes to fit properly stem, I now realise, from the fact that my body shape deviates quite a bit from the standard.  For example I have a relatively large neck for my chest size, a pronounced low right shoulder, rounded upper back and a flat chest.  Being sized on neck measurements, bought shirts were alway too bulky and even in slimmer fitting versions there would be excess folds, especially on the low shoulder side.  I have corrected much of this in my shirt draft although the neck is collar is still not quite there.

Trousers too have always been a problem.  While not quite rotund enough to be in the corpulent category I do nevertheless posses a rather prominent tummy, flat backside, and prominent calves and thighs.  Not liking the belly overhang associated with low rise trousers held up with a belt (which also tend to be tight at the front and too loose at the back) I opted many years ago for baggier, higher waisted trousers held up with braces.  The older cuts are a revelation as they allow for an elegant narrow leg while also providing ample capacity above, but they are hard to get right.  I am currently working on a pair (with no front pleats or waistband) in which I have cut the fronts slightly longer than the backs above the knee and the backs slightly longer than the fronts below with a view to fulling the seams then stretching and shrinking.  These older cuts also seem to have a closer leg, making the dress at the front fork essential.



« Last Edit: January 28, 2020, 07:06:57 PM by NigelW »