Author Topic: Trouser Fitting - Inward turned Feet  (Read 156 times)

Schneiderfrei

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Trouser Fitting - Inward turned Feet
« on: January 03, 2020, 09:49:56 PM »
Inwardly Turned Feet

Abb. 517

When the feet are twisted toward the inside, the alterations of the paper pattern are made in the opposite direction. Usually the centre crease was just re-ironed to make the fault appear corrected.  For changing the paper pattern, the centre crease line is re-positioned inwards from M to M1 by the necessary amount, which is approximately 2 – 3 cm. An equal amount is removed from the side-seam, running gradually to the hip and is added at the inseam, as shown in Image 518.

 
 


Image 517. Trousers for in-turned feet. The white line shows where the fold should fall.

 
Abb. 519

The undersides are changed as follows:

The crease-line at the hem is shifted outward, which means toward the side seam by the same amount as the topsides.  The inseam beginning at the fork tip is narrowed gradually by the same amount, the missing is replaced at the sideseam.  The changes for such a foot posture can be made without much additional time, the trousers fall exactly to the centre of the foot from the beginning and the customer gains full confidence in the master as the result of the immediate good fit.

 


Image 518. The changes to the topsides: The crease—line shifts inwards, the side seam is accordingly reduced and the inseam is extended.  Image 519. The changes to the undersides are in the opposite direction: Here the crease-line shifts about 2—3 cm toward the sideseam, the sideseam is extended by the same amount gradually to the hip, the same amount is removed from the inseam.