Author Topic: Wir Aendern - Trouser Fitting - Diagonal Folds pg 31  (Read 149 times)

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Wir Aendern - Trouser Fitting - Diagonal Folds pg 31
« on: January 03, 2020, 03:05:19 PM »
Diagonal Folds to the Undersides  - Excessive Leg Shape

 

 
Image 1: In these trousers the seat angle of the undersides are made too crooked and the leg width is measured too wide below.

 
 
The Origin of the Error

Significant cutting and processing errors exist in these trousers:
 
a) The undersides were cut too crooked at the seat seam and the side seam; arguably it has enough comfort for the wearer when sitting, walking or stair climbing; in a resting position it will always show folds running from above at the gluteal region down to the hollow of the knee, it looks ugly for waistband trousers.
 
b) Even with the large leg width, the shape of the calf still presses through strongly; with such a leg form the entire undersides must be iron-worked sufficiently, especially above the calf.
 
c) Also in case there is any doubt, the leg or bottom width of these trousers can in no sense be said to be lovely or correct in terms of today’s fashion.
 
The fashionable trend of 46—48 cm gives a much better image for the trousers.
 
Our Changes:

It is recommended to disassemble these trousers completely, to cut them to the correct leg width and to straighten the undersides.
 
Image 2 shows, how the bottom width is correctly distributed between the topsides and undersides.
 
In normal bottoms of 48 cm, the width of the topsides is; half of this amount (= 24 cm) minus 2 cm = 22 cm which is distributed evenly to both sides.
 
At this calculation for the undersides simply 3,5 cm are added to each side to achieve the correct hem width including 3/4 cm seam allowance for each seam.
 
 
Image 2:
The correct distribution of the bottom width:
For the topsides the topside breadth is ½ bottom width minus 2 cm.
For the undersides an additional 3.5 cm per side is calculated.

With images 3 and 4 we show, how these trousers as a whole are to be recut.
 
The Hip- or seat width can be called correct, so no changes are necessary there.
The bottom width of the topsides are set as ½ bottom measurement - 2 cm. The side-seam is drawn smoothly to this width, from hip height to a, paying attention to a moderate cavity below the knee line.
 
The innerseam is drawn gradually in the same way as the side seam from the crotch point (or Fork Tip) to b.
 
For the undersides the bottom width is the measured topsides plus 3.5 cm on each side or half the entire bottom measurement + 5 cm.
 

Images 3 and 4:
The topsides and the undersides must be recut in this manner for the normal bottom width of 46—48 cm,
at the same time the undersides must be straightened toward the top.

The side seam is also redrawn gradually upwards to the hip line (waist) as the inner-seam is redrawn upwards to the crotch point.
 
Pay special attention to the necessary calf shape for pronounced calves and a moderate knee hollow. The undersides must be made straighter towards the top; the seat-seam is widened 2 to 3 cm, in this case, there should always be enough inlay for this.
 
The same amount must be removed at the side seam from B6 to B5, to obtain the same and correct waist seam width as before.
 
As can be seen, this results in a much straighter position of the undersides, thus avoiding excessive length in the gluteal region, but keeping the trousers sufficiently comfortable.
 
These trousers have to be recut almost completely; this time consuming alteration can hardly have beeen avoided to make these trousers fit and achieve a nice overall form.
 
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