Author Topic: Wir Aendern - Horseshoe Folds in the Trousers  (Read 141 times)

Schneiderfrei

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Wir Aendern - Horseshoe Folds in the Trousers
« on: January 03, 2020, 02:39:58 PM »
The „Horseshoe Folds“ to the trousers

 

Images 1 and 2: These trousers show significant folding in the gluteal region at the side and rear views, technically known as „Horseshoe folds“.

 
These folds are known by the nickname „Horseshoe folds”. They are formed in the trousers immediately below the gluteal region and originate mostly through excessively crooked undersides.  These fitting errors occur especially when dealing with an erect or stocky figure; this then pushes the abdomen forward and thus naturally forms shortness in the gluteal region.
 
 
These folds can be got around without special difficulty, however you must not fall into the opposite error and cut the trousers too short in the back, especially for the stocky or corpulent figure.
 
Such folds are also very commonly criticised as flaws — although to an essentially lesser degree, however they could be regarded as natural folds. It must be distinguished whether the length of the trousers in the buttocks region may be considered an error or be regarded as natural folds.
 
If the customer’s opinion is that the trousers are too long in the gluteal region, but the expert’s opinion is that it really should not be shorter, and that a straighter position of the undersides will just cause discomfort for the wearer when moving, then it is advisable to proceed as follows:
 
The apparently (to the customer) excessive length in the gluteal region is pinned away as a horizontal fold with a few pins.  Now the customer is asked, with these trousers now shorter in the back, to mimic the action of climbing stairs (although without risk of injury [or damage]) or to sit down: he will recognise for himself, that the trousers in this state would be extremely uncomfortable and that a bit of movement length [Bewegungslänge] must be allowed for.
 

Images 3 and 4: The undersides  must have a straighter seat angle, the inseam and sideseam are narrowed at the knee height to achieve a better development of the calf curve, the crotch point is extended.

The Alterations:

The topsides look good generally and are hanging straight to the middle (centre seams); so changes are not necessary here.
 
The undersides of the trousers must be changed as per the following:
 
1 cm each is removed from K2 and K4, to achieve thereby a greater curve for the calf shape.
 
The crotch point is extended about 1,5 — 2 cm at S3; redraw the inseam line down.
 
The seat-seam is extended at B6 about 2 — 3 cm and gradually smoothed in downward; the waistband height at B6 is shortened about 1 cm, so that the pushing length at the waistband disappears.
 
To maintain the same waist length, the same amount that was added to the seat seam must be removed gradually at the side seam at B4.
 
Before the reassembly of the trousers the omitted ironwork must be done; to the topsides, a moderate stretching of the inseam and side seam from the knee height down is recommended, to the undersides, above all the necessary calf form must be obtained and the seat-seam is stretched at the a deepest hollow of its curve.
 
The correct [Schrittdurchmesser/Schpaltdurchmesser] crotch diameter/width influences the fit of the trousers; it is controlled in the following way;
 
Topsides and undersides are joined at the inseam up to the height of the knee with seam allowances. [the text is imprecise here as to whether the seams are lined up at the allowances or the seam lines.] —
 
At half the rise, the distance from the edge of the fly across to the seat-seam should amount to at least ¼ of the whole seat width. However, this measurement control has only limited validity, naturally the correct assembly of the seam lines, the run of the seat-seam line and the size of the crotch point of the undersides have an essential influence on the results of the measurement.
 

 
Images  5 and 6: The control of the correct crotch diameter in the middle between waistline and forkline by joining the inseams together.