Author Topic: New member  (Read 85 times)

BC

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New member
« on: August 16, 2019, 12:18:19 AM »
Hello
My background in sewing is actually  upholstery. I would work in my grandparents shop during the summer. My interest in sewing has stayed long after my familyís departure from the upholstery business.
I have a particular interest in shirt making. I donít think I have ever had a shirt that truly fit me and wanted to build something for myself. 
So Iím on the hunt for corpulent menís shirt patterns and wondered if anyone on here knew where I might find one or how to begin drafting a pattern? Thank you for taking the time to read my post and appreciate all the help!

Schneiderfrei

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Re: New member
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2019, 12:51:57 AM »
There are not too many corpulent drafts for shirts.  Therefore it is most common to make observations regarding the balance of the silhouette.  Here is a discussion of ways of incorporating the corpulent requirements to a shirt draft.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=61.msg251#msg251

Here is a very lengthy thread involving adjusting a sloper/draft actually the muslin, to incorporate corpulence, as well as a few other figure deviations.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=238.0

Here is a rather technical discussion about a historical leap forward in drafting from the early 70's which mentions specific changes to a draft to incorporate corpulent changes.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=508.msg4032#msg4032

Main you will have to learn how to construct a proportional draft and then how to make secondary changes to incorporate the forward shift of the centre back and the forward shift and increase in length (Front Balance) at the centre Front.

G