Author Topic: Drafting trousers.  (Read 1600 times)

Adriel

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Drafting trousers.
« on: January 16, 2019, 03:21:18 AM »
Long story short, seam ripped a pair of damaged pants and used for the start of a pattern, then increased the rise. However, there is pulling in the back seat as seen in this old photograph (I can get one at waist height if a must).



Boiled down to using these instructions: http://trantanphat.com/tailoring/drafting/trousers_insts.html. However, being a visual person, not quite understanding these instructions: "The seat seam (back rise) follows the straight line M - 10 , becomes a shallow curve just outside the 10 - 5 curve of the front, and runs through 5 into 23, finishing up straight for about the last 1" (2.6 cm)."

This is what I have right now.


Thank y'all in advance!  :)
« Last Edit: January 24, 2019, 09:59:45 AM by Adriel »

Henry Hall

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2019, 05:50:20 AM »
That pattern and the manner of doing the back parts is adapted from the pattern in Jane Rhinehart's book. You can get a link to the entire book elsewhere on this site.

You can see on the draft that the seat curve is much straighter than the one you have. You don't have to follow that particular round curve of the French curve. The curve you have is too hollow and will be tight when sewn-up. You're going to have to draft the pattern like it is on the draft you're using if this is going to work.

Have a look at some other drafts. Maybe Mansie's draft at Cutter & Tailor (is that draft her too?). Post a full picture of your entire draft so it can be seen.
‘Being perfectly well-dressed gives one a tranquillity that no religion can bestow.’ - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

peterle

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2019, 09:59:07 PM »
First of all, there will always be pulling in the back of trousers when you try to climb a chair. This is not a matter of fit, it´s just how trousers work.

For judging the fit and to give fitting advice we have to see you wearing the muslin in a natural pose, standing on both feet, arms naturally hanging at your sides, feet not too close together. Front, back and profile pics.

I think the muslin of your pics would be a good starting point.


Schneiderfrei

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2019, 12:00:43 AM »
Here is the 1959 Rundschau Trouser Draft - in English:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w3kfqih9vzos2oz/rundschau-system-for-trousers-1959-tabloid.pdf?dl=0

It is old, the legs are a bit wider etc, but it is a good method to follow.

One problem I had with Mansie's draft mentioned above, is that it removes 3 cm height at the waistband right at the start.

G

Schneiderfrei

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2019, 12:01:51 AM »
Get your camera up at the level of a table top.

Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2019, 12:49:50 PM »
Got to love technology. Found the forum default is no notifications, correct that, and email takes a whole day to come through... LOL

That pattern and the manner of doing the back parts is adapted from the pattern in Jane Rhinehart's book. You can get a link to the entire book elsewhere on this site.

You can see on the draft that the seat curve is much straighter than the one you have. You don't have to follow that particular round curve of the French curve. The curve you have is too hollow and will be tight when sewn-up. You're going to have to draft the pattern like it is on the draft you're using if this is going to work.

Have a look at some other drafts. Maybe Mansie's draft at Cutter & Tailor (is that draft her too?). Post a full picture of your entire draft so it can be seen.

Thank you so very much!

I was embarrassed about the whole draft as forgot the rear comes way out compared to the front, what I get for trying to save fabric. Now it's all sewn can't show.

So if I understand, if more fabric needed, can make the line even more shallow then the instructions?

I am enjoying learning all the line positions changing fit.  :)

Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2019, 12:53:47 PM »
First of all, there will always be pulling in the back of trousers when you try to climb a chair. This is not a matter of fit, it´s just how trousers work.

For judging the fit and to give fitting advice we have to see you wearing the muslin in a natural pose, standing on both feet, arms naturally hanging at your sides, feet not too close together. Front, back and profile pics.

I think the muslin of your pics would be a good starting point.

Thank you so very much for the help!

The first pattern (for I did not draft it) felt tight and now wearing the second all evening, can say feels amazingly comfortable, no pulling in the rear (haven't put my leg on a chair though), why have worn it rather then change back.

I knew I forgot a pose, the side shot. Oh rats, now it is dark out.

Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2019, 01:10:00 PM »
Here is the 1959 Rundschau Trouser Draft - in English:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w3kfqih9vzos2oz/rundschau-system-for-trousers-1959-tabloid.pdf?dl=0

It is old, the legs are a bit wider etc, but it is a good method to follow.

One problem I had with Mansie's draft mentioned above, is that it removes 3 cm height at the waistband right at the start.

G

Thank you for all the help!  :)

Rundschau also is not a sloper as in the pattern I used. As I said, my favorite pants are from a late '40s suit and have about a 10 inch cuff (for a total of 20 inches). I find with my thick thighs and thin lower legs, having fullness below the knee in a more strait then skinny taper improves the atheistic and proportions. Thus why on the draft I added the extra width to try and convert to first fitting.

That was also confusing me on Rhinehart as seems a narrow waistband and wanted to have fun matching the cuff height to the waistband width, in part because I can and also find it more comfortable. To be clear, prefer not wearing belts as they also feel like I am being cut in two, so don't have to worry with how it would look, not even going to have belt loops (which I removed on one suit and vastly improved the appearance).

Get your camera up at the level of a table top.

I tried that and the vertical reference lines became distorted. I am using a chair and boxes to prop the cellular. Being basically broke, been trying to avoid having to purchase a point and shoot just for fittings (I do have a tripod and an Olympus 2n). Any other thought(s)?


Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2019, 02:02:21 PM »
Here is the first draft, second sloper. So excited and so comfortable forgot at first to do the side shot and seems the fabric has stretched with wearing. Also did a 3/4 shot, so five pictures total.











Thank y'all in advance for the help!  :)

peterle

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2019, 12:45:05 AM »
The trousers are yet too tight between waist and crotch. The seat angle could also be straighter for such a wide leg.

So first you should add some width in the center back seam: add 1,5cm to the left from point M and redraft the seat seam fading the new line into the old line at point 5.

Do the same at the center front: add 1cm to the left at point 8 and redraft the center front line vertically and fade the new line into the old somewhere between point 10 and 5.

We also need profile pics to see the run of the side seam.

I hope you have enough inlays in your sloper for the alterations.


Henry Hall

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2019, 04:11:10 AM »
I have to say, apart from the minor seat seam tightness (and maybe a little shortness at the back crotch point) these are quite good compared to some other 'first try' trousers that have been posted over the years.

Pretty wide legs though....Oxford bags here we come!
‘Being perfectly well-dressed gives one a tranquillity that no religion can bestow.’ - Ralph Waldo Emerson.

posaune

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2019, 04:13:52 AM »
why is the front crease line runing /\ instead of ||?
I have my tablet sitting at the window sill real plump und the camera set to 10 seconds
posaune

Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2019, 11:38:07 AM »
The trousers are yet too tight between waist and crotch. The seat angle could also be straighter for such a wide leg.

So first you should add some width in the center back seam: add 1,5cm to the left from point M and redraft the seat seam fading the new line into the old line at point 5.

Do the same at the center front: add 1cm to the left at point 8 and redraft the center front line vertically and fade the new line into the old somewhere between point 10 and 5.

We also need profile pics to see the run of the side seam.

I hope you have enough inlays in your sloper for the alterations.

Thank you!

As I said, I put in a side in addition to the front and back, as requested. Are they still not showing? Not that matters since now onto the second.

I have to say, apart from the minor seat seam tightness (and maybe a little shortness at the back crotch point) these are quite good compared to some other 'first try' trousers that have been posted over the years.

Pretty wide legs though....Oxford bags here we come!

Thank you.

Shortness? Meaning raise 23 higher?

As I said, going of a late '40s suit pants; never heard of Oxford bags. My body measurements are 36 inch hips, 23 inch thighs, 16 inches at the knee, and 10 inches at the ankle. Am I wrong?

why is the front crease line runing /\ instead of ||?
I have my tablet sitting at the window sill real plump und the camera set to 10 seconds
posaune

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Not sure why the tilt, just the way it wanted to lay wren pressing.

Here is the second fitting. How is the camera height and vertical reference?








tom bennett

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2019, 09:51:55 PM »
Have you a picture of your draft?

Adriel

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Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2019, 10:05:53 PM »
Have you a picture of your draft?

I drafted on the muslin...