Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.

[posaune]

if  you want to show us your work, there are some rules how to present your work. Sorry but I have to remark that.
first of all there is a thing called "Parallaxe". So look that the camera is in waist height.
Then you should have the s.a. inside and the whole garment should be pressed.
Then there should be some lines in your garment  the place of bust circ, waist and hip circ. As well center front, center back (vertical).
side views are welcomed. And if you have a vertical reference like a door or cupboard near you helps too.
It must be done in this way. sorry.
love your dog!
lg
posaune

[Adriel]

And may I inquire how does one intuitively know this, especially with Autism?

What is SA?

What is a circ?

Isn’t center on the seam?

Arriving home, post soon.

[Henry Hall]

SA = seam allowance

Circ = circumference

[Adriel]

Wahoo, progress!  Thank you so very much!

I was bummed as thought work could commence, then broadsided with a plethora of rules. Was hoping if any glaring errors, for example the bum pulling/wrinkling, could be pointed out before drafting the trouser pattern as to have a head start. 

On the McCall patterns which the coat and vest derive, they use 5/8" SA, though some places have been taken in so more there.

I get cracking now, though be no use without brain fuel (I'm currently lunching). 

[Henry Hall]

Follow what Peterle wrote though. If the photos aren't straight on and parallel it will be impossible to judge them properly. follow a vertical line on the wall and the skirting board (baseboard) on the floor. It's crucial to have them straight to ensure that what looks like e.g. a low shoulder really isn't just an optical illusion.

Once the photos are easy to judge you can get positive and useful feedback.

[Adriel]

Using the inspiration suit, you mean like this:


My point and shoot was stolen by the movers, so using my cellular strait up and down.

Since this fits well, will use it for the back and front rise measurements. Back is 16.5" and the front is 12.5".

[Henry Hall]

Not really. Place the camera at waist height so it is not taking photos at an angle. The image taken from below is harder to assess.

When you put those calico garments back on, make sure they are not inside-out and mark out the areas Peterle noted: the chest circumference, waist, hips knee etc. It will help a lot. Everything needs to be easy to see and unencumbered by extra clothing, so no shirts billowing over the waistband or altering the fit of the waistcoat.

If you need an idea of what to do look at the threads posted by Jruley or the ones on trouser fitting posted to Cutter & Tailor.

[Adriel]

Okay, will do, appreciated.

On the coat I sewed the body seams out so could pin. Since I drafted the sleeves I sewed with seams in.

I got the front drafted except the fly, still need to figure that out, welcome input. Started in on the back and senior dog was alerting plus time to head to bed, so there I am headed. Not nearly as difficult as expected even with using the ‘40s knee and cuff measurements. Will see once I sew up if still feel the same way! 🤣

Good night and thank you.

[Adriel]

Seems the back trouser pattern seat seam isn't looking right, should angle down and not up? Not seeing how to create the curve without the French curve.



I do have a tendency to over think, though.

By the way, just need to add 5/8" seam allowance, cut, remove the previous waistband, and sew it all up, then can have it critiqued. Unless need to adjust based on the generosity of advice.

Thank y'all in advance. 

[Schneiderfrei]

I'm very sorry, I have commented without looking back to see how far this thread had advanced.  I will leave my comments, but I do realise they are a little out of order.  I also agree with all the comments about the camera angle.  It is very important to set the camera at waist height.

"The next thing to consider is to take photos of the single garment, worn (with some neutral loose clothing so as not to distract from the garment in question).

The cloth needs to be ironed, and it is very helpful to mark out the drafting lines.

 i.e. the centre front, centre back, if it's the pants, it will be the waist, hip and maybe the fold line at front and back.  If it's the vest or jacket, the chest and waist lines will be most helpful.  You can do this in chalk or careful stitching.

You need to do this against some vertical structure behind, to give context, and to do 4 views: front, right side, back and left side. 

I expect no one here minds but it is not necessary to display your identity."

G

[Adriel]

Okay, thank you for letting me know I need to abandon this thread and start a new one.

With my unique name and ages ago had my picture put out publicly without my approval, plus anything can be found, I don't care if my face happens to get in a picture.