(older) Mueller states you have to take the proportional shoulder length for drafting otherwise the bust dart will be too small respec. too large. You correct to the right length afterwards. In the modern drafts of Mueller the shoulder length is derived from back width (+ ease). And you alter afterwards too. But you have to use the back neckhole otherwise.....
Well that answers a question for me!
I tried a draft for a lady with 124 bust adjusting for her individual measurments and I didnt think the dart size was correct. Of course I may have made mistakes, and I was reading through the German text for the differences in calculations for larger sizes.
I will try again just to clarify.
The hals diagram shows so clearly the dilemma. Wow
So many different ways of drafting, it is clear why sometimes there is much confusion.
Narrow width but deep in front versus wider but shallower in front. I am sure those extreme variations do exist in the population but cannot be applied to everyone. It is a dilemma to find a consistent formula.
It must make more sense to use the neck rather than the bust though.
I wonder if sizing standards have ever taken anything like neck width/circumference into account?
Other than trying a formula out over and over on a variety of people, how else can a draft formula be tested?