Author Topic: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers  (Read 407 times)

Mr.gustavsson

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My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« on: September 03, 2018, 01:01:15 AM »

This is my first attempt at making a pair of trousers. I bought the "Patternmaking for Menswear" book and used their flat front trouser pattern. I have also included a drawing of the pattern I made in Illustrator. I made one alteration to the original pattern by narrowing the legs 5/8" on the knee line and 1" at the hemline (my alteration is in blue).

My aim is to make a pair of "modern" slim fitting trousers that are worn on the hips. I will probably use s120 wool.

My thoughts after wearing my first toile:

1. The waist is ridiculously high. I can just drop the waist line without it impacting any other measures right?
2. They feel a bit too snug around the hip line. I believe that is visible in the photo taken from the back. Increase the hip line measurement just a smidge?
3. The crotch look a mess. There seems to be too much fabric around the crotch and in the back. In the back they also flare out to the sides.

The three red lines in the photos are Hip/Crotch/Knee lines. The knee lines up well to the pattern.

Happy for any feedback!

Cheers,








posaune

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2018, 02:50:08 AM »
Not bad.
Here what I think:
First rule: don't do the lines in the pic. mark them on the fabric! So we can see the grain line. Do the back hip line especially
And do not fold or roll up the hem, cut it. Better to short then too long for a muslin.
You can shorten the waist line after fitting - no problem.
 you have 2 major problems, You have a flat bum and knocked knees. So look in the internet how to alter that. And at hip it is not a smidge (:-))
maybe 4 - 6 cm I would guess. And measure for high hip please.
Do the blue line a bit more fluently when curving into the original. 
lg
posaune
When doing a first attempt to draft a pants - this is my opinion - on should  do the style the book gives - style variations can addressed later. A smaller knee width can give some problems with the crotch.

Greger

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2018, 04:55:08 AM »
Dart is to wide. And, to long.
An inlays should be up the seat seam, and let out where needs to be.
Many tailors pin the bottoms up; 8 inches is a good height from the floor.
The waistband should be as long as the seat inlays are wide.
Some tailors add inlays on the back sideseams. The waistband needs to include this length.

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2018, 05:08:40 AM »
Not bad.
Here what I think:
First rule: don't do the lines in the pic. mark them on the fabric! So we can see the grain line. Do the back hip line especially
And do not fold or roll up the hem, cut it. Better to short then too long for a muslin.
You can shorten the waist line after fitting - no problem.
 you have 2 major problems, You have a flat bum and knocked knees. So look in the internet how to alter that. And at hip it is not a smidge (:-))
maybe 4 - 6 cm I would guess. And measure for high hip please.
Do the blue line a bit more fluently when curving into the original. 
lg
posaune
When doing a first attempt to draft a pants - this is my opinion - on should  do the style the book gives - style variations can addressed later. A smaller knee width can give some problems with the crotch.

Thanks! I will do the alterations you suggested next weekend.

I had markings for hip/crotch/knee on the fabric but they weren't visible enough on the photos, so i added the lines. Will make sure to mark them better next time. And the curves on the pattern is just a mock up to show the style and measurements. I don't transfer the exact lines. I could photograph my paper patterns instead if that's better.

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2018, 05:13:06 AM »
Dart is to wide. And, to long.
An inlays should be up the seat seam, and let out where needs to be.
Many tailors pin the bottoms up; 8 inches is a good height from the floor.
The waistband should be as long as the seat inlays are wide.
Some tailors add inlays on the back sideseams. The waistband needs to include this length.

I will have a second look at that dart, and remember inlays - more seam allowance in general.

TTailor

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #5 on: September 05, 2018, 07:56:48 AM »
Baste a zipper in your mock up. It doesnt have to be a real fly, just get the centre front closed as it will be in the final trouser.

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #6 on: September 05, 2018, 06:59:52 PM »
Baste a zipper in your mock up. It doesnt have to be a real fly, just get the centre front closed as it will be in the final trouser.
is

Noted! I will redo the entire toile this weekend.

TTailor

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #7 on: September 05, 2018, 10:30:30 PM »
I think bowed legs, rather than knock knees.
Agree otherwise though with what Posaune has said
Check your measurements again, redraft and compare the patterns.
Can you post the draft? It often helps to see what you are working from. Many “modern” drafts are a bit problematic. I understand if not because of copyright.

posaune

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #8 on: September 05, 2018, 11:19:14 PM »
yes, thank you for correcting Terry. In German the term is easier (for me) O leg or X leg. It is an O leg
lg
posaune

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #9 on: September 05, 2018, 11:28:21 PM »
I'll photograph my paper pattern when it's drawn up with my measurements.

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2018, 12:30:04 AM »
Hi guys,

I thought I'd post a long overdue update. I had hoped I would be moving a long at a faster pace but as always life has a funny way of always derailing your plans.

I haven't been sitting completely idle though. I have made several attempts at improving my first pattern and I believe I finally have something worth showing. I haven't bothered adding waistband or fly. I'd like to get some of the more basic fitting problems solved first.

My own observations : The legs are currently too narrow over the thigh (the knee width is alright though). Movement feels restricted around the crotch. Creases just below the seat.

Planned alterations : Increase thigh width. Move the crotch line up a bit for better movement (increase length of the curve as well?).

To deal with the creases below the seat I'm planning on changing the pattern according to the last picture. It's for a "flat bum" or if you have your hips forward. I don't believe I qualify for a flat ass but my hips are prominently pushed forward, which is visible in the side photo.

Any comments are highly appreciated.

Cheers,









posaune

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2018, 09:28:23 PM »
That pants is tight, wow.  Before I write anything further one remark: trouser fitting without a waistband only holding the trouser up - is like fitting a shirt without closing the shoulderseams.
Measure (at half the distance crotch to kneeline (where the front grease line goes out))  the circ of your  thighs and compare it to the pattern same place. You have more muscles there than you pattern gives room for. And you can see that the back crotch seam is not enough. As far as I can see you have shortened the back crotch in seam about 2- 3 cm  a bit much. You see the back pattern drags the pants into crotch. Release it. Start with 0.5 cm going slowy up.   If it gets to baggy you take this out at side seam.
lg
posaune

peterle

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #12 on: October 22, 2018, 11:39:35 PM »
I second Posaune: no Waistband, no fitting.

Another thing is, what kind of trousers are you aiming for? When you want to do long trousers also make a long toile. Especially a forward hip posture is usually connected to prominent calves wich then cause a severe diagonal pull from the front tighs to the back calves, also the back hem will stand away and the front hem will cling to the foot. You wont´see this in a shortened toile. You would be very unpleasingly surprised.

Your forward hip seems to be much stronger in the second series of pics(the sides seam is much more slanted than in the first set). To judge your posture, a side pic would be ideal, relaxed, with just hanging arms, including your shoulder blades and with a strictly vertical line in the background (i.e. a door frame).

Mr.gustavsson

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #13 on: October 23, 2018, 05:25:41 PM »
Thank you for the advise. I'll get back to the drawing board.

About the length. I was told i could shorten the toile for my first fittings. I'll add a bit of length to extend over my calves next time.

Henry Hall

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Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Reply #14 on: November 09, 2018, 08:55:42 AM »

Planned alterations : Increase thigh width. Move the crotch line up a bit for better movement (increase length of the curve as well?).

That lower red line on the backparts will make the thigh even narrower. Plus that line on the seat seam (into the crotch) will make it feel smaller, not bigger.

To deal with the creases below the seat I'm planning on changing the pattern according to the last picture. It's for a "flat bum" or if you have your hips forward. I don't believe I qualify for a flat ass but my hips are prominently pushed forward, which is visible in the side photo.

You correctly diagnosed your hips forward stance, but I think that alteration might give you tightness over the hips (I really mean your harris) at the back. Give it a try though.