Author Topic: chest canvas construction question  (Read 598 times)

Philipdep

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chest canvas construction question
« on: September 02, 2018, 03:11:50 AM »
I was recently talking to someone about the construction of the chest canvas in both his camelhair (Harrisons of Edinburgh) and velvet (Holland and Sherry) topcoat. He said that the hymo in both are the same but in the camelhair, the chest pice only consists of a layer of wool fleece, and in the velvet it's just a layer of cotton moleskin. He says that neither have any horsehair or a second layer of canvas. Is there precedent for this kind of construction? It seems like it would lose shape after a while, or am I off-base on this one?

Thanks!
Phil
« Last Edit: September 03, 2018, 02:51:54 AM by Philipdep »

Petruchio

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Re: chest canvas construction question
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2019, 08:34:22 PM »
I know that this is a rather old thread, but I found this post from jeffery's blog, that might be of interest:

https://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2011/01/davenza-roma.html

So I was wondering if this kind of construction is limited to camelhair or is generally used to make a coat softer?

Philipdep

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Re: chest canvas construction question
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2019, 05:03:30 AM »
Thank you! I had given up on expecting replies on this question.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: chest canvas construction question
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2019, 10:02:24 AM »
Love a good dissection.  Thanks for findinng this.

G

Greger

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Re: chest canvas construction question
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2019, 05:21:43 PM »
A hymo for the main canvas and a hymo for the chest works for some tailors. One of the main reasons for the canvas is to prevent the body shape from showing thru. In building houses on soft ground a proper foundation the building will keep its proper shape. Without the foundation the post, rocks, whatever it is sitting on, these can sink. So, post 1 might sink 4 inches over 30 years. Post 2 and 3 might not sink at all. Post 5 might sink 7 inches. Post 6 might sink 5 inches, and so on. Then there is the other side of the house and some middle post. Your floor would not be level. One building I was in had 7 inches (?) of slope in just one room, which they had leveled one time by making a false floor, but even that became unlevel as time went on. eventually they put in piling and foundation on top and the whole building is level. One  house I used to look at was sloped quite a bit. If you split water on the high side it would run clear to the other side. Human chest are not flat and a coat over time will show ever bump and lump without proper foundation. A proper canvas construction prevents that. What else is a canvas foundation for? Anyway, that is the major aim, however it is done: and some tailors their maybe no other reason.