Author Topic: Women's Pants toile fit check  (Read 19265 times)

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #45 on: September 24, 2016, 05:10:43 AM »
But what about the rope in the seat?

I don't mean the two ones you marked in black.  Look carefully at the last picture, it's the short one about 1 - 2 inches left of the crotch seam.

Thanks,

Jim

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #46 on: September 24, 2016, 07:35:17 PM »
First  sew away this two folds on both sides.
The rope could be a result of wrong handling. I don't see a reason why it shows now.
If you look close on the rope you'll see that the rope forms a little fold between the legs. So in case of slanted hip it could be that one cheek is deeper as the other - the folds under the buttocks are not on the same level - but I can't see it. (I see that are loose fabric in the right under the waist band at front which you must controll a bit more.) And I see at back crotch is something like a "kink" at the back crotch seam (red circle). If you sew that seam and take the crotch seam right horizontal level to your eyes and look from one end to the other the seam must look fluent and straight without any lumps or bumps- like you would holding a rifle. I do not know and my englisch is limited how to describe this test.
If you want to correct it:
You pin this fold close. You open the back crotch seam and a bit from front -  waistband stays. You look that the end of the fold is now pinned through the inseam  (or crotch seam)  of the left leg. You shove one leg into another (upper side on upper side) and look how the crotch seams differ. You mark with pencil the crotch line left on the crotch right. As I'm no friend of cutting 2 different crotch lines I would now mark the center from this both lines and sew this for new crotch seam. It can be that you must open the side seam of the right side a bit again.

Or you pin  it up direct on the body. Try with your hands to move it a bit up and a bit to the sideseam. And pin up what you have shoved to there. If it still pulls sew the crotch a bit deeper 3 mm ! (and wider).  (I think too it would be nice if you can pin up a bit the whole back too- later Jim)

But as I stated earlier I would go ahead (after sewing out at the creases and testing it) for a wearable pants. with iron work done.
lg
posaune




Here a good site about alteration to the fit of pants - you do not need to understand russian.
http://korfiati.ru/2016/01/defektyi-posadki-bryuk/

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #47 on: September 24, 2016, 10:54:04 PM »
First  sew away this two folds on both sides.


Is this meant to simulate the effect of iron work?  There is no seam here, so I'm not sure what kind of alteration I'd make to the pattern after removing these.

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #48 on: September 24, 2016, 11:30:02 PM »
Thats a great site posaune many thanks.

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #49 on: September 25, 2016, 12:41:18 AM »
This takes away the width which is released over the bum but not needed under it. Nothing to do with the iron. (Besides you do not always need a seam for iron work, bspw.  calves ) If you need much "inner" room in your pants it is mostly the case that the pants upper leg will get too wide.
This is an alteration (short cut) I have seen in Palmer Pletsch and it works very well.
You take this out in the pattern later in this way:  you first copy the upper part (back hip to waist) and then you cut the leg from waist to hem. You shove it together and put the upper part on the pattern back again.
In men#s trouser in big sizes you do the same but here classical you hollow out the outer seam from knee to hip.
lg
posaune


jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #50 on: September 30, 2016, 10:54:03 AM »
OK,  I made a couple more small changes to the crotch seam which amounted to smoothing out waviness as alluded to in #46.  I think I can take it in just a little more at the spot you see pinned below in the back view.

I tried pinning away the folds, then decided to pin out the extra width just behind the side seams since this is where the pattern will be altered anyway (as shown in the diagram provided in #49).

And here is how they look now:









posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #51 on: October 01, 2016, 07:49:51 PM »
it is better again. But it is still draging under the seat. Pulls from crotch to knee and a bit show of too much length at the center back leg from knee to crotch line.  First please sew what you have pinned at sideseam and crotch. Shorten the trousers leg, so they can fall straight down, without touching the feet that there will be no punching up.
I'm not quite sure what is going on. Before doing anything drastic - I would first pin up  a wedge at CB waist about 1 cm to nothing between the darts.. This is supposed to lift the back away a bit from the calves and lift the inner crotch line and hip-line in back. If you see it is good pin as much as needed.
lg
posaune

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #52 on: October 09, 2016, 06:07:56 AM »
Sorry for the delay, I was recovering from an abrasion on the cornea of my left eye (ouch!)

Here it is with the requested changes, including sewing the waistband 1 cm lower at CB waist:









posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #53 on: October 09, 2016, 08:13:21 AM »
Sorry  to hear this, Jim. I hope you will recover soon. Operations on the eyes are always frightening for me. I had one last year and I'm glad to see very well again.
Better again. The knees are coming up and the lines look level. Maybe another 05 cm taking up at the back. Right side needs some attention. There are folds in front (Lenght wise and slanted) and horizontal at back. Open the  waistband there and pin it new on the person - maybe a second dart  at front In front there is a hollowness. And maybe over the belly a little bit length not much but those little slanted folds are seen in a very small version at the left too.
But it is real time to do a sample now with real stuff and iron work.
lg
posaune

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #54 on: October 09, 2016, 10:18:34 AM »

But it is real time to do a sample now with real stuff and iron work.


It would be - but the other news is that my wife is seeing an orthopedic surgeon next week about a possible back operation for degenerative disk disease.  I don't know if there could be posture changes after recovery, but I think it makes sense to wait until we know something definite.

Thanks everyone for your help.

hutch--

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #55 on: October 09, 2016, 10:41:24 AM »
This last set of photos show a far better fit Jim, I would agree with posaune that the next step is to make the garment with the correct fabric as it will hang a lot better. Sorry to hear about you having the problem with your eye and that your better half may have to have surgery, I guess its among the joys of getting older, something like an old car that needs to be fixed more often but if you work at it, it keeps running for a lot longer.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #56 on: February 02, 2017, 01:48:02 PM »
I'm happy to report the surgery was successful, and she is recovered sufficiently to work on pants again :).

So I cut a pair out of blue linen, and here they are basted up same as the last muslin:









She thinks she might like less ease at hip level.  What should I watch for to avoid spoiling the fit?

peterle

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #57 on: February 02, 2017, 09:10:03 PM »
I donīt think thereīs enough fabric to reduce the hip. It seems to fit. The right hip has some rumples, wich is superfluous length (not width) because of the low hip/bent knee.

Eventually you could add about 1-1,5cm length to the CF to achieve enough length for the belly and get a straighter front waist seam. ( Draw a parallel line 1-1,5cm higher for about 5-7cm from CF towards side seam and smooth in to the existing waist seam.)

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #58 on: February 02, 2017, 09:12:01 PM »
You cut at center of each leg vertical and shove the panels one over the other. So you minimize the fabric but the "inner" geometry will not be touched. This is when she wants the whole pants thighter. Be careful at waist.
If just the legs you start a cut horizontal under the Gesaessline to center leg and at center vertical down and shove the outside a bit over the inside. You true from hip point to knee the out seam. Both front and back. If she feels it should coup a bit under the tush at back - just the back leg.
Lg
posaune
Pin the right side a bit higher 0 at CB and CF up side seam 1 cm (I means pin the waist band lower) 
oh posts cross with Peterle's.
Yes, the side view of the sit of waist band is nothing you would be proud off. But hem hem a higher set waistband in front does not flatter us over the fiffties ladys, Peter.

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #59 on: February 03, 2017, 01:53:19 AM »
Thanks posaune and peterle!


Eventually you could add about 1-1,5cm length to the CF to achieve enough length for the belly and get a straighter front waist seam. ( Draw a parallel line 1-1,5cm higher for about 5-7cm from CF towards side seam and smooth in to the existing waist seam.)


If you go back to #19 and #21, the waistband is cut in a curve.  So there's no way it's going to look straight in the side view.


Pin the right side a bit higher 0 at CB and CF up side seam 1 cm (I means pin the waist band lower) 


The right side is already cut a little lower, I think the ripples may be because she stood with her knee bent.  I'll check when she tries them on again.

Thanks,

Jim