Thank you both for your replies. You are a wealth of information.
Without a yoke there would be a CB seam and the yoke dart would be manipulated and redistributed by slashing and pivotin: a very little towards the CB (left unsewn and making the CB seam a bit curvy), a bit more towards the shoulder seam( wich would be eased in and not sewn as a dart) and a little bit would be left at the armhole (not sewn as well, makes the back scye a bit more comfy). Thatīs how the back is done in my linked pics.
I think this complex manipulation is beyond my skill level at this point. And, during the sloper and first jacket threads I thought it was settled that my prominent shoulder blades would require either a yoke or shoulder darts for a good fitting upper back. Given the choice, I would prefer the yoke for this style jacket.
I have a leather flight jacket with a yoke and back folds, and arm movement is not a problem. Maybe it would be even better if the folds went higher up, but it's enough with the yoke.
So a waist surpression at the back can only be installed at the dart lines. When you carry the folds all the way down to the belt, the waist surpression will only make the folds gape with hardly any impact on the shape. But it would work when the folds are sewn closed in the lower area, from a bit above the half in between chest and waist line downwards....
...A little waist surpression can also be made in the side seams...
...Front dart: you donīt have to live with this armhole dart. Manipulate it into a classical vertical front dart. Transfer the armhole dart to your paper pattern, slash the paper pattern verticaly from the hem upwards to the tip of the dart. Pivot the scye dart (nearly) close and the dart will open towards the hem. The actual dart has to be a bit shorter. You can eventually integrate a very little waist surpression into this vertical dart.
Using these ideas, what I would like to do next is:
- Keep the yoke, but no CB seam
- Half belt at back
- Waist suppression at the folds, but ending above the waist
- Waist suppression (small) at side seams
- Vertical front darts with small waist suppression
It is obvious that #60 is better than #61.
By the way: Iīm pretty sure your waist lines are yet too low. Your true waist is higher. Check it with a cord tied around your body at the small of your back.
A new toile is required, so I will take these points into account in the draft.