Author Topic: Harris Tweed coat for corpulent figure - balance problems  (Read 1998 times)

kate

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Harris Tweed coat for corpulent figure - balance problems
« on: May 05, 2016, 10:29:42 PM »
As promised, here is an attempt to make something for mio marito

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4PY1d4DEEloNzVLa2VndDAtWUU&usp=sharing

6' (when standing straight, but with a tendency to stoop as the day goes on), in his 60s, mature non-athletic figure, corpulence at the waist, comparatively narrow chest, protruding seat and sloping shoulders.  This is based on a draft that we used at college and I've fiddled around a lot with it - mainly opening out the back and closing the front. Plus a little wedge at front hemline to close it in a bit.  The sleeves here are just tacked on; shoulder pads are there but no sleeve head roll yet; pinned to at the front. I know that one shoulder is higher than the other and the lapels aren't even... I'll try and sort that out in the next project. The thing that has frustrated me is his posture changes so much depending on how he is feeling. In these photos, he's tired and at the same time very self-conscious - so standing much straighter than normal. Most of the time he is even more stooped, seat out, stomach pulling him forward, head down and forward. Hence my urge to make the CB longer and to shorten the front - and now a bit annoyed that it's resulted in raising the hemline at the front!  Anyway, all comments welcome.

(Hutch - if you prefer me to embed the photos individually, let me know. Also if this isn't the right place for this posting...)

posaune

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Re: Harris Tweed coat for corpulent figure - balance problems
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2016, 02:01:32 AM »
Kate,
it is sewn nicely
I'm only a woman's tailor but you said all comments ......
...... this is to tight. The waist darting is much too much and the front "breaks in"at side.
You should camouflage more. A bit waist darting at side seam (or at panel in back) - maybe this should took place bit more over his real waist.
I think, the slits in back are not good for this type of body. If you can - close them. And maybe you could let out. He needs width in the lower back.
In front he needs length over the stomach but only a bit shortening at bust level. It is better to have a long front than a short one which goes up.
The stooping we see is not as bad as you wrote. But you wrote about that he changes this quickly. I know what you are up to. (I sew for some people who can't even stand long enough for fitting). Only thing you can do is to settle to what you think is right.
For style maybe try a longer lapel and do only welt pockets -no flaps- and these slanted.
The sleeves are nice.
lg
posaune

kate

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Re: Harris Tweed coat for corpulent figure - balance problems
« Reply #2 on: May 06, 2016, 02:53:30 AM »
Thank you very much for all of this posaune. This has really helped. I see what you mean about the tightness and the length over the waist - funnily enough it was only when I looked at the photos (rather than in the flesh, moving about, leaning one way...then another way) that I saw it. The vents at the back were at his request - but they don't work with his figure and posture. I feel I've been too much focussing on fitting exactly to his shape - rather than working out how to camouflage - as you say.  I'll have another go! thanks again.
Kate.

hutch--

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Re: Harris Tweed coat for corpulent figure - balance problems
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2016, 09:50:59 PM »
Hi Kate,

> (Hutch - if you prefer me to embed the photos individually, let me know. Also if this isn't the right place for this posting...)

No problems, the Google location works fine. You have done some nice work here. I think the idea of flattering the shape rather than close fit works better as it is the end result that matters and a big stomach is not flattering to older men.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D