Author Topic: Adapting plain trouser draft to pleated front  (Read 2449 times)

jruley

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Adapting plain trouser draft to pleated front
« on: March 27, 2016, 07:32:21 AM »
I have had good experiences with the "Mansie Wauch" plain front trouser draft from C&T and am curious how to change it to a pleated front for variation in style.  Could someone explain or direct me to an appropriate reference?

I would also be interested in adapting this draft for a corpulent build.

Thanks,

Jim Ruley

Henry Hall

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Re: Adapting plain trouser draft to pleated front
« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2016, 11:35:37 AM »
One standard way is to split the existing pattern of the fronts along the crease line and open them out to the required pleat allowance. See this thread on C&T. It has some exhaustive discussion. In principle you can add the pleat allowance to the waist measure at the drafting stage.

jruley

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Re: Adapting plain trouser draft to pleated front
« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2016, 12:58:10 PM »
Thanks HH.  So, pleat allowance = 2x desired pleat depth, correct?

posaune

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Re: Adapting plain trouser draft to pleated front
« Reply #3 on: March 28, 2016, 01:50:47 AM »
If you want the full comfort of a pleated trouser, in my opinion you should think before you do this:

  In principle you can add the pleat allowance to the waist measure at the drafting stage .

A partial fullness of the pleat should reach down over hip line. A good way is to cut the front to knee line and across and open them up. What part of the trouser you rotate depends on how you lay your pleat.

If you draft you add to front waist the pleat depth and to the front hip + 1 -2 cm (depends on system).
lg
posaune