Author Topic: High quality woven shirt interfacing / interlining by the metre (DHJ Chargeurs)  (Read 162 times)

Dunc

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Many of you will have seen me talking about this over on the "old" C&T forum, but I thought I'd duplicate the info over here just in case...

After much searching, I have finally managed to locate a supplier for cut lengths of both fusible and non-fusible woven shirt interfacing from DHJ Chargeurs, who will sell to private buyers and ship internationally. This is very high quality stuff, made in France. The supplier is an Italian firm called Chemital srl, and their interfacings can be found here. (The also offer many other useful items in bulk, such as collar stays, buttons, and various packaging items, although I have not yet bought any of these.) You need to register with them online before you can see prices or order, but this only takes a couple of minutes.

The interfacings I have bought from them so far are from the Fusetop (fusible) and Mellosan (non-fusible) ranges. I have not yet investigated the Polystar range, although I believe these are also fusibles.

They currently offer Mellosan in three weights, of which I have tried two. The 285BC is a medium weight, while the 29NC is a heavy weight. Both are very supple, in an excellent optical white.

The Fusetop is available in 4 weights: 160 (heavy), 285 (medium), 930 (light) and 6458 (extra light). The 160 is also available in two finishes (soft and extra soft), of which I've only tried the soft. Additionally, the 160 is available in either optical or natural white, while the 930 is available in optical white, natural white, light blue, and grey. All are of a very high quality.

While I don't have precise fusing specifications, I don't think it would be possible to fuse the Fusetop adequately with an iron - you need a heat press or fusing machine. I'm currently fusing at around 175 deg C for 15 seconds, under as much pressure as my press can deliver without becoming difficult to open and close, and the results seem very good (although I have yet to test them with repeated laundry cycles).

Their checkout system seems to struggle with international orders (or it did the last time I tried), but they do respond fairly promptly to enquires made via the contact form on the website. Shipping for a small order (1m each of 4 different interfacings) to the UK was 14.90 and only took a couple of days.

TTailor

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Thanks so much for this information!

Dunc

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My pleasure - it's nice to be able to contribute something!

BTW, I noticed that in your "in search of" post from a couple of years back, you mentioned that the interfacing you used to get had something printed in blue on one selvage... I think that very probably means it was DHJ, since theirs have "Made in France" printed in blue on one selvage.

Schneiderfrei

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Yes it has 'Made in France' on it. Thank you for clearing that up.