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Costumers Forum / Re: Creating a body padding
« Last post by TTailor on April 20, 2019, 10:30:07 PM »


The dress taking shape on the stand



The bra and “lovely” bloomers under the dress and over the padding and shirt and trousers. Don't mind the shoes and socks, they are just stand ins
The bra shape was derived from an existing bra.
I padded one cup up a bit more, then I draped over it to create a pattern.
We had some of this vintage looking corset fabric in stock, so we used that to make the cups.
 The cups are filled with some poly fill and some plastic beads which are encased in half moon shaped pockets of very lightweight sheer stretch fabric. The back of the cup is a piece of cotton and that hold the stuffing in place. After the fitting I modified the fit as I did all this before the body padding was created.
The bloomers: I just used a period concept of bloomers with a straight side seam , which gives too much fabric dragged into the space between the leg. I will change them later. I literally just drew up a shape just to have something ready quickly. The body is gathered at the waist then attached to a waistband which is elasticated. They have to hide the trousers underneath.
Lots going on.


The dress in its first toile fitting.
Not too bad! It needs work, but it is a win to get something this close in the first try.

A big thank you to Posaune. I spent some time in January working on understanding the Rundschau drafts for women and I did a basic bodice draft with the bra on a men's 44 stand.
When it came time to make a pattern for the dress, I used that pattern as a starting point for draping a new pattern over the body pattern. I used the basic Runschau draft for a skirt  and modified it mostly by eye to the shape I thought would work.
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Thanks for posting this, and your extra work.
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It is absolutely a precious discovery! It is a treasure to me, because it is an English article. Thank you so much for sharing the blog and the blogger who generously share his. I am going to dig into it.
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So, I stumbled across a site whose proprietor (or someone else) obviously had made the effort to go to a library and scan one of Vincent's books,  "A Beginner's First Course in Cutting, Part I and II."

http://myvictorianwardrobe.blogspot.com

The scans were very good, but unfortunately the pdf-format was too heavy (lots of color and whole spreads) to read on a tablet. So I deconstructed the original pdf, and spent the evening revising the data it into something that can be read easily.

When the processing is made by archive.org, pick the download option (not the preview!) to check the quality of the pdf. You might want to grab the OCR:d file, though it doesn't really matter.

EDIT: The option "pdf with text" has had an automatic treatment by archive.org rendering the gray images of lesser quality compared to the original pdf uploaded. So don't grab that copy if you don't need to copy-paste text!

https://archive.org/details/Vincent.A.Beginners.First.Course.In.Cutting.Part.I.and.II.CPG

Hope someone enjoys, I think this book hasn't been "in the wild" except for on that site. Thanks to the scanner!

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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by Greger on April 19, 2019, 05:58:51 AM »
Thank you!
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by TTailor on April 18, 2019, 08:49:05 PM »
Thank you so much for the translation work.
I am looking forward to drafting it up.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by mysewingpleasure on April 18, 2019, 04:48:09 PM »
Schneiderfrei,
Thank you so much for your effort. I hope that I can manage to draft it. To me this is a huge challenge. I have never drafted  any men's jacket in European style before. I am taking a baby step.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by pfaff260 on April 18, 2019, 03:46:03 PM »
Beautifull piece of work Schneiderfrei!  Chapeau!
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on April 18, 2019, 03:42:59 PM »
I'm always aware of copyright issues. I try to only post older articles and encourage anyone to purchase Mueller books.

In addition, these posts are presented as only for private study.

Hopefully that is enough.

I'm sure many would be intersted.

G
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Draft for a Slim Jacket - Rundschau 1960's
« Last post by Futura on April 18, 2019, 03:20:56 PM »
Thank you for sharing this! :)

(I just discovered I had finished numerous translations of Müller & Sohn drafts for women's trousers, I think from the 21st edition. Not sure how I managed to forget that much work! I would be happy to share if anyone is interested. Hopefully it wouldn't pose any copyright issues.)
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