Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Historical And Period Costumes => Costumers Forum => Topic started by: TTailor on March 17, 2019, 12:53:10 AM

Title: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 17, 2019, 12:53:10 AM
I am starting the process of making a body padding for a character.
I made one about three years ago, incidentally for the same actor, and it was something I wasn't expecting to land in my workload. It was given to me at the last minute, so I didnt document it fully then.
Now I wish i had.
The good thing is that I have access to the old body padding for reference.
The bad thing is getting a late start on it (things beyond my control)

Step number one
Make a stretch power net body suit to fit the actor. Look for power net in our supply room. Get white power net dyed to a flesh tone.
Figure out the stretch factor of the power net and make a pattern.

My pattern consists of a bodice, sleeves and shorts. I cut the bodice with a “princess” seams (my front bodice pattern was modified after the picture was taken) The back of the shorts has a seam over the centre of the buttock, side seams as well as a regular cf/ cb seam. This gives me a multitude of options for fitting.
Possible issues? I dont have up to date measurements for the actor, and he wont be available to remeasure until rehearsals start in six weeks. I don't know if the memory foam we used for the padding last time was unbearable to wear, so I have to wait on that.

I am working on the photo embedding from Flickr ........standby!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 17, 2019, 01:08:28 AM
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7828/46670735544_178ddae09e_n.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4859/46670734394_8b1d4ee73b_n.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/46670734184_119ce6f27e_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 17, 2019, 11:27:04 AM
Great post, thank you Terri.

I look forward to observing your progress.

G
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Zanzare on March 17, 2019, 12:34:40 PM
Good project.

Out of interest: with what kind of machine are you sewing the power net?
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: pfaff260 on March 17, 2019, 06:06:15 PM
interesting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 18, 2019, 01:01:07 AM
We put together the bodysuit with a zig machine for the fitting.
I left fairly ample seam allowances because I didnt have up to date measurments of the actor.
Once he arrived and was remeasured, he had gone up a full size, so I was happy to have the ability to let it out.

After the fitting, we took it apart, I marked all the alterations, and it was put together with a four thread serge on a domestic serger. The seam allowances were then stitched down with a multi stitch zig.
The zip goes in with a straight stitch.

I will take a photo of it tomorrow for you.
Its ready for the next step.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Zanzare on March 18, 2019, 03:17:21 AM
Cool, thanks.

I mainly use powernet for bustflatteners and therefore the zig zag is sufficient.

I’ve been working in the past in places with special industrial equipment for stretchy seams were we made a lot more costumes with all kinds of elastics and sometimes I miss them.... especially when it comes to hemming those elastics.... maybe I need to investigate in the domestic overlockers a bit more as sometimes that would be very handy.

Anyway, looking forward to see your boddypadding evolve!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on March 19, 2019, 09:34:28 AM
I've never even heard of 'powernet'. I am so behind the times.

Maybe I should investigate.  I might need it for 'support' in later years.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: theresa in tucson on March 19, 2019, 11:12:00 AM
Henry, powernet in different weights is used in girdles, bras and other shapewear.  It's also used a lot in things like compression socks, knee and ankle braces.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on March 19, 2019, 12:24:07 PM
Oh right. I know compression socks and support tubing. I'd never heard the name powernet though.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 19, 2019, 09:49:33 PM

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7865/40453323003_01df9df2ea.jpg)
This is on a stand that I had to pad out with a layer of 1/2” foam to get it to be the size of the actor.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7860/46503709245_8f3da3e014.jpg)
This time we reinforced the underarm area with a double layer of the net. This is on the body as well as the sleeve.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7857/46503707955_19b9cda038.jpg)
Neckline finish
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: posaune on March 19, 2019, 11:38:30 PM
neat necklinie finish! The pin in the front neck give me the creeps! Does he sing ?
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 20, 2019, 09:12:22 AM
He cant sing now! Ouch!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 20, 2019, 09:34:06 AM
Perhaps its acupuncture?
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Zanzare on March 20, 2019, 06:17:32 PM
Nice finish, love the neck!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 22, 2019, 09:40:14 PM
It has been slow progress this week, people out sick and pushing to be ready for fittings on another show while the designer is available.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7889/47387822372_391bd253bc.jpg)
I started with building a bit of a belly out of four graded layers of 1/4” airconditioning (reticulated) foam.
It does not hold moisture, and it gives a firm base for the susequent padding. These were glued together, The upper layers darted to shape over the under layers.
We are going to sew a strip of power net to the perimeter of the foam, and use it to zig it in place on the padding.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on March 23, 2019, 07:14:56 AM
It looks like an authentic beer-belly. Pretty excellent. It no doubt takes great skill to build a form like this; seeing the shape before you create it, very much like a sculptor.

I might order one from you when I do a bank job. Using a false name of course.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 23, 2019, 11:39:14 PM
Something interesting I noticed. I made one three years ago and it was a real process of “creation” now that I have to do another, I seem to want to follow what I did before rather then “create” from scratch.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 23, 2019, 11:51:18 PM
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7823/32506443477_2d9ef3c113.jpg)

One memory foam mattress sliced up.
We bought a 1 1/2” thick mattress topper, and Eric from the props department cut it up into 15” widths, then ran it through the bandsaw to give me 1/2” or 5/8”  slices.
He had to make a special fence for the saw to do this.
I used memory foam last time as it is softer and squishable like flesh, and I was trying to make something that had realistic qualities.
The down side of memory foam is it will absorb water/sweat, but we will try to mitigate that problem a bit by perforating it.

I wish the foam came in a better colour but its what we have to work with.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 24, 2019, 10:26:27 AM
Wow, how exciting and what an engineering project.

Naturally you would follow a tried and true method, but I know what you mean, I love the creative process. :)

G
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on March 24, 2019, 11:57:30 AM
Something interesting I noticed. I made one three years ago and it was a real process of “creation” now that I have to do another, I seem to want to follow what I did before rather then “create” from scratch.


Like a proper tailor rather than fashion designer. It's in your blood!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: theresa in tucson on March 25, 2019, 02:04:41 AM
Terri, I'm following this thread with interest.  The spouse plays Santa for our son's former school every December and I would really like to have a better "belly" than the one that comes with the costume.  He has the white beard and attitude, just not the belly.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 31, 2019, 01:35:43 AM
Next steps.
I started some foam shapes.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7838/40511929193_13fe0fec5d.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7874/40511929113_5e6cda085b.jpg)
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 31, 2019, 01:41:46 AM
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7917/46754707774_e24c46f621.jpg)

We are perforating the layers that will lay closest to the body, to help with keeping the actor comfortable.
The sections of the foam will be sewn into “pockets” made of a stretch net. Again, trying to keep some air circulation possible.
I am doing this in sections in an attempt to be a bit more realistic (as much as one can get in 1/2 inch memory foam!) and not just a solid unmoving padding, if that makes sense.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 31, 2019, 01:57:09 AM
Perfectly sensible terri.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Greger on March 31, 2019, 04:36:07 PM
Wow! That is interesting. Hope it works well. All those holes must help prevent over heating.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on March 31, 2019, 11:25:12 PM
I think the holes help, it does look odd though!
We will also need to have interior pockets for ice packs.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Greger on April 01, 2019, 06:46:55 AM
Didn't think of ice packs. That would certainly be a blessing.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: spookietoo on April 02, 2019, 02:48:37 PM
I was about to ask if you used ice packs, just thinking about all those layers of foam makes me sweat. A basic single layer power net girdle can get steamy.

Thanks for posting all of this. You have such a cool job!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 06, 2019, 11:33:46 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7865/32543630937_1675a7a201.jpg)
It’s a start.....
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7839/47499344081_c69b6fb73f.jpg)
Upper body getting close.
I am getting all the pieces prepped and pinned to the body suit for a fitting.
I still need to make a buttock section and cover the leg.
Unfortunately our hanging stand has very little space between the thighs so I will have to make a best guess as to the shape for that piece and just fit it on the actor in the fitting.
It looks a bit rough but it is all just basted together. The stretch pouches need to be tighter. I need to reglue a few bits of foam.

One of the challenges with glueing the foam together is sweat and moisture. The most successful glue we have tried is water resistant, but it takes 24 hours to set. That extends our process time and also makes it difficult to glue darts in the foam together. So we found that heavy duty double sided rubber cement tape holds the foam and seems to be water resistant so far.
We tried contact cement, but strangely enough it was not as durable as the water resistant white glue.

We did get a fitting this week, so we are on the right track.
Now it comes apart, modified where needed, and the pouches sewn properly and then reassembled on the body suit.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: posaune on April 07, 2019, 11:57:22 PM
Terri, it gives me the creeps. Reminds me of my last hoilday at the beach. Very natural!
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 08, 2019, 12:34:43 AM
Its a silhouette anyone would be proud to have!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 08, 2019, 06:18:51 AM
I think it is taking shape. Thanks, and it is a bit creepy i agree.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: pfaff260 on April 08, 2019, 11:01:00 PM
Amazing work!! Thank you for sharing this.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 14, 2019, 11:38:09 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7854/47606265541_e2322bcf81_z.jpg)

The actor requested more prominent buttocks, so we have obliged. We also have pieces for his thighs, which will be the last pieces attached because we cannot put the padding on the hanging stand once that happens. The stand does not have enough space for thigh padding. ;D

(https://live.staticflickr.com/7887/47495747642_9acfd7ae9c.jpg)

A view of the back and its finishing
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7834/46690459195_b9cec3a52a_c.jpg)
He needs a double breasted jacket and trousers.
I made a toile of both and had a fitting. Here is the beginnings of the jacket.
The designer wants somewhat badly fitting trousers, a bit pulled up into the crotch, too tight at the waist and I am finding it difficult to not correct my pattern!

Next up will be a dress as he is disguised as a woman at one point in the play.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: theresa in tucson on April 14, 2019, 11:45:52 PM
Terri, I take it this is a comedy?  I had to laugh about your not correcting the pattern.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 15, 2019, 12:13:10 AM
Yes it is a comedy!
He will probably have to underdress his trousers and shirt when he wears the dress, as well, he will need some “bloomers” so they need to cover the trousers, and also be under the dress.
We have made a “bra” as well.
Its quite a process, as usual!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 15, 2019, 12:14:47 AM
So I managed to get him to a respectable 55 inch chest , 55 1/2 inch waist and 58 1/2 inch hips.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: pfaff260 on April 15, 2019, 01:09:02 AM
May we see the bra when it’s finished? I would love to see how you did that. Thank you so far for sharing this with us.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 20, 2019, 10:30:07 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/7821/47553123292_085e9a96c9.jpg)

The dress taking shape on the stand


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32707651917_7a552980f6.jpg)
The bra and “lovely” bloomers under the dress and over the padding and shirt and trousers. Don't mind the shoes and socks, they are just stand ins
The bra shape was derived from an existing bra.
I padded one cup up a bit more, then I draped over it to create a pattern.
We had some of this vintage looking corset fabric in stock, so we used that to make the cups.
 The cups are filled with some poly fill and some plastic beads which are encased in half moon shaped pockets of very lightweight sheer stretch fabric. The back of the cup is a piece of cotton and that hold the stuffing in place. After the fitting I modified the fit as I did all this before the body padding was created.
The bloomers: I just used a period concept of bloomers with a straight side seam , which gives too much fabric dragged into the space between the leg. I will change them later. I literally just drew up a shape just to have something ready quickly. The body is gathered at the waist then attached to a waistband which is elasticated. They have to hide the trousers underneath.
Lots going on.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47650299601_c879d6a83a.jpg)
The dress in its first toile fitting.
Not too bad! It needs work, but it is a win to get something this close in the first try.

A big thank you to Posaune. I spent some time in January working on understanding the Rundschau drafts for women and I did a basic bodice draft with the bra on a men's 44 stand.
When it came time to make a pattern for the dress, I used that pattern as a starting point for draping a new pattern over the body pattern. I used the basic Runschau draft for a skirt  and modified it mostly by eye to the shape I thought would work.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: mysewingpleasure on April 21, 2019, 08:26:43 AM
TTailor, It is in a successful progress, lovely! I can't wait to see the double-breasted jacket and the trousers!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: pfaff260 on April 21, 2019, 05:53:23 PM
Wonderfull! Looks almost real!  I use the the Rundschau draft aswell when i draw for a friend of mine, who is a big girl, and it always fits beautifully.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 21, 2019, 10:23:14 PM
That is a spectacular result TTailor. :D
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: spookietoo on April 26, 2019, 12:11:39 PM
Terri, he's reminding me of my Great Aunt Berdie in that dress.  (She even had the thin bird legs!) Great job!!! :D
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 26, 2019, 08:46:04 PM
I have had a number of colleagues tell me that I have recreated their Nonna, in fact now that I think about it, my greatgrandmother was a bit like shape.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: posaune on April 26, 2019, 09:48:19 PM
He has so nice formed ankles. Do we get a pic from his real posture??
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 27, 2019, 10:52:51 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33835544648_37bb2fa305.jpg)
Last Friday's fitting.
He joked that there should be a disclaimer in the program to explain the less than perfect fit.
We made the jacket a bit tighter so it had some more pull lines, left the trousers with the drag lines.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 27, 2019, 11:14:13 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47712925801_df202c6e09_n.jpg)

The dress in real fabric, vintage apron and the rubber gloves will be dyed to another colour.

Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 27, 2019, 11:16:41 PM
I know I cannot control what happens on the internet, but I would appreciate it if these images remained here. Please do not download and post them elsewhere.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: mysewingpleasure on April 28, 2019, 06:11:55 AM
TTailor, it is a huge success. The jacket is perfectly fit. Love them. I cannot imagine how the jacket pattern wass drafted, it is amazing to see such kind of measure-to-make personal drafting for special figure and posture. it is adorable. Cheers to those who put their life-experience knowledge to books so people can inherit the treasure to generations. I am so impressed to read along the forums, so much to admire. This blog has been my library of fashion.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 28, 2019, 01:22:38 PM
Fantastic Ttailor!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: posaune on April 28, 2019, 06:56:38 PM
Both types are real people - you won't imaginge that most of it is foam. Excellent work and besides a lot of fun.
Now he has to show his art you have done your part for success.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: pfaff260 on April 29, 2019, 02:10:01 AM
Beautifull work!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on April 29, 2019, 08:30:44 PM
Thanks everyone, it has been quite a process. We are not quite finished yet. At the last minutes we need to permanently attach the thigh pieces. Once they are attached, we cannot put it back on the hanging stand.
Deadline for it is this week, so we made it!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Greger on April 30, 2019, 04:09:00 AM
That is a terrific job.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 30, 2019, 02:51:36 PM
Brilliant!
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on July 21, 2019, 01:38:09 AM
I just caught up with the rest of this thread. What a process! It must be odd making deliberately ill-fitting patterns.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: TTailor on July 21, 2019, 11:25:41 PM
Yes it is odd.
Its challenging at best to interpret what someone else has in mind. Luckily I left a lot of seam allowance because in the end the designer wanted the trouser fit modified.
Sigh.
Title: Re: Creating a body padding
Post by: Henry Hall on July 24, 2019, 05:28:34 AM
Bloody designers!