Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => The Apprentice's Forum => Topic started by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 09:31:29 AM

Title: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 09:31:29 AM
Hey y'all, posted an introduction already, so thought to also introduce the three piece suit I am working on, my first machine sewing project.

First though, this is the inspiration for the three piece suit.
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_9900-jpg.27658/)
Belonged to Opa who purchased it in the late '40s. I love high-rise, the almost strait legs coming to a wider leg opening, no pleats, and the suppressed waist.

First, the trousers.
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3557-jpg.27660/)
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3661-jpg.27662/)
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3671-jpg.27663/)

I used a pair of pants to start the pattern, then added rise plus widened the waist band to match the cuff width, just because I can and find it being wider more comfortable. I know now from WA the pleats are too long, though don't know the correct length. Also, the glutes are not fitting perfectly and told somethinbg about the seam, though couldn't understand the explanation. Anything else needing attention?

Honestly, thinking maybe need to draft my own pattern to get it all right.

Onto the vest.
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3698-jpg.27664/)
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3710-jpg.27665/)

From a vintage McCalls pattern which I suppressed the waist and added lapels.

And then the coat.
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3767-jpg.27666/)
(https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/attachments/img_3762-jpg.27667/)
Serebro is always by my side when tailoring, so figured he deserved to be in one of the pictures, though the other two also wanted.
 
Anyway, used a modern McCalls pattern except the lapels copied the profile of a '60s sport coat and narrowed so just over half the width of the chest, plus drafted my own sleeves as the ones that came with are rubbish, too skinny for even an emaciated Gumby. I still need to figure out how to pattern the cuffs for working cuffs, any help be greatly appreciated.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Henry Hall on January 13, 2019, 10:04:24 AM
I can't see any pictures. Or is it just descriptions?
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 10:25:45 AM
Odd I am not getting notifications either.

The pictures show up here just fine. I don't have a picture host so used the links from here: https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/threads/if-you-cant-purchase-it-make-it-yourself.240766/#post-1899262. I used the Mona Lisa button (http://)

Thanks and appreciation.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 13, 2019, 11:29:36 AM
Sorry Adriel, I can't get to images from that link, only a discussion re a typo.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 11:54:20 AM
Why are we not allowed to post pictures?

Or do we need to upload onto the website and use a different button? I am not seeing any other picture insertion buttons.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:01:09 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49422416_2459986247349062_2676900579833282560_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=59950ca386bf11ffb2b9dace28d1646f&oe=5CC43BDC)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:04:10 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49807075_2459992977348389_1303845109200060416_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=7bc35f43ff174e67c1c1b60037880c30&oe=5CB81F33)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:04:39 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49864175_2459993157348371_3265390560575225856_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=6221caa1645a2133c8ac77c31eb8756a&oe=5CC917A6)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:08:08 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49898824_2461505990530421_5427365282203041792_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=8240d5ebdfba0f138dbb96e39f3c9aec&oe=5CD14590)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:08:40 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49711598_2459994057348281_3992707323276558336_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=5fc25c83834204fc37b34b254d856df8&oe=5CBDDE32)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:09:10 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49815657_2459994397348247_1622731823744286720_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=71453e78d4a274e4f11a4ccda83d203f&oe=5CD9E947)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:09:52 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/50227161_2459994737348213_2138941095487209472_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-1.xx&oh=3d6fef84258a607970f0b68929ed9652&oe=5CD971F5)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 13, 2019, 12:10:22 PM
(https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49895733_2459994864014867_3117680532117258240_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_ht=scontent-lax3-2.xx&oh=3972c7b6593762e4527be906620d29ad&oe=5CB4A40B)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: peterle on January 13, 2019, 09:45:47 PM
I can see the pics now.
When you want us to help you fit the garments it is necessary to do it one by one.

So do you want to concentrate to the trousers or to the vest first?
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 14, 2019, 05:52:06 AM
Ah, okay, didnít realize was so many to separate.

Based on feedback elsewhere, thinking need to draft my own trouser pattern. I did find this: http://trantanphat.com/tailoring/drafting/trousers_insts.html.

Is there anything I should consider from the previous?

If not, how about moving to the vest?
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: posaune on January 14, 2019, 06:17:47 AM
if  you want to show us your work, there are some rules how to present your work. Sorry but I have to remark that.
first of all there is a thing called "Parallaxe". So look that the camera is in waist height.
Then you should have the s.a. inside and the whole garment should be pressed.
Then there should be some lines in your garment  the place of bust circ, waist and hip circ. As well center front, center back (vertical).
side views are welcomed. And if you have a vertical reference like a door or cupboard near you helps too.
It must be done in this way. sorry.
love your dog!
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 14, 2019, 06:59:31 AM
And may I inquire how does one intuitively know this, especially with Autism?

What is SA?

What is a circ?

Isnít center on the seam?

Arriving home, post soon.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Henry Hall on January 14, 2019, 07:32:29 AM
SA = seam allowance

Circ = circumference
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 14, 2019, 07:59:28 AM
Wahoo, progress!  :D Thank you so very much!

I was bummed as thought work could commence, then broadsided with a plethora of rules. Was hoping if any glaring errors, for example the bum pulling/wrinkling, could be pointed out before drafting the trouser pattern as to have a head start. 

On the McCall patterns which the coat and vest derive, they use 5/8" SA, though some places have been taken in so more there.

I get cracking now, though be no use without brain fuel (I'm currently lunching).  :P

Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Henry Hall on January 14, 2019, 08:04:52 AM
Follow what Peterle wrote though. If the photos aren't straight on and parallel it will be impossible to judge them properly. follow a vertical line on the wall and the skirting board (baseboard) on the floor. It's crucial to have them straight to ensure that what looks like e.g. a low shoulder really isn't just an optical illusion.

Once the photos are easy to judge you can get positive and useful feedback.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 14, 2019, 09:31:30 AM
Using the inspiration suit, you mean like this:
(https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49828663_2462976117050075_1045147112859238400_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.xx&oh=3fc6b8e5214e1091098a597f29f1bc1e&oe=5CC5D7A5)

My point and shoot was stolen by the movers, so using my cellular strait up and down.

Since this fits well, will use it for the back and front rise measurements. Back is 16.5" and the front is 12.5".
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Henry Hall on January 14, 2019, 10:11:47 AM
Not really. Place the camera at waist height so it is not taking photos at an angle. The image taken from below is harder to assess.

When you put those calico garments back on, make sure they are not inside-out and mark out the areas Peterle noted: the chest circumference, waist, hips knee etc. It will help a lot. Everything needs to be easy to see and unencumbered by extra clothing, so no shirts billowing over the waistband or altering the fit of the waistcoat.

If you need an idea of what to do look at the threads posted by Jruley or the ones on trouser fitting posted to Cutter & Tailor.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 14, 2019, 04:04:28 PM
Okay, will do, appreciated.

On the coat I sewed the body seams out so could pin. Since I drafted the sleeves I sewed with seams in.

I got the front drafted except the fly, still need to figure that out, welcome input. Started in on the back and senior dog was alerting plus time to head to bed, so there I am headed. Not nearly as difficult as expected even with using the Ď40s knee and cuff measurements. Will see once I sew up if still feel the same way! 🤣

Good night and thank you.
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 15, 2019, 03:19:58 PM
Seems the back trouser pattern seat seam isn't looking right, should angle down and not up? Not seeing how to create the curve without the French curve.

(https://scontent-sjc3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/49900289_2464872433527110_2463379450398507008_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent-sjc3-1.xx&oh=16964c93733b4f0d120f3cb13e10b628&oe=5CCFC169)

I do have a tendency to over think, though.

By the way, just need to add 5/8" seam allowance, cut, remove the previous waistband, and sew it all up, then can have it critiqued. Unless need to adjust based on the generosity of advice.

Thank y'all in advance.  :)
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 15, 2019, 08:19:30 PM
I'm very sorry, I have commented without looking back to see how far this thread had advanced.  I will leave my comments, but I do realise they are a little out of order.  I also agree with all the comments about the camera angle.  It is very important to set the camera at waist height. :)

"The next thing to consider is to take photos of the single garment, worn (with some neutral loose clothing so as not to distract from the garment in question).

The cloth needs to be ironed, and it is very helpful to mark out the drafting lines.

 i.e. the centre front, centre back, if it's the pants, it will be the waist, hip and maybe the fold line at front and back.  If it's the vest or jacket, the chest and waist lines will be most helpful.  You can do this in chalk or careful stitching.

You need to do this against some vertical structure behind, to give context, and to do 4 views: front, right side, back and left side. 

I expect no one here minds but it is not necessary to display your identity."

G
Title: Re: Introduction/First Trial Garment - Fit check and working cuff question.
Post by: Adriel on January 16, 2019, 03:07:01 AM
Okay, thank you for letting me know I need to abandon this thread and start a new one.

With my unique name and ages ago had my picture put out publicly without my approval, plus anything can be found, I don't care if my face happens to get in a picture.