Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Bespoke Professionals => Women's Cutter And Tailor => Topic started by: posaune on May 15, 2016, 09:17:10 PM

Title: missing link
Post by: posaune on May 15, 2016, 09:17:10 PM
to test Hutch's new pic attachment
( (
I attach this pic.

My question: This is a nowaday Basic pattern from Rundschau. In the past the pattern were done in another way. The back  was smaller (see the 1 cm at the back dart, it takes away 1 cm from the armhole width), the Armhole was parted 1/2 and 1/2 not like in today's one 1/3 to 2/3. And front was made shorter 1 cm and back 1 cm longer. And the bust dart was calculated in quite another way (here not shown).

I started patternmaking in the early 80 ties. There were those alterations already  done. But I have books from the 50 ties. There was the older draft.  Now I'm looking for the time when the change began and can get maybe some explanations.
In my opinion it could be 2 reasons:
a)With the new draft you could easier do all kind of sleeves, like set in, dolman, kimono, raglan from the same basic.
b) The posture was not so erect anymore.

Maybe some has older literature?
it works wonderful, Hutch! Thanks to both of you Lepus and Hutch.
Title: Re: missing link
Post by: Schneiderfrei on May 16, 2016, 09:40:31 AM
That is very interesting to me about the posture of people in different times. Before the second WW people even died from different causes than after.  There were new diseases after, I have read Zeitkrankenheit und Managerkrankenheit.

Title: Re: missing link
Post by: pfaff260 on May 18, 2016, 05:52:35 AM
Posaune, are you looking for a Grundschnitt before 1950?
Title: Re: missing link
Post by: posaune on May 18, 2016, 08:15:48 PM
Hi Pfaff260, I speculated you or Peterle may have the missing link.
In 1950 there is the old basic pattern with only the back width. I have material till 1954 and then after 1974. The missing link may be in these 20 years.
It is funny even in the little booklets Schneiderfrei posted, the stooping figure plays no big role. It is more the erected posture.
So times change. I remember my Grandma slapping my back and told me to sit erect. (It has not helped) besides scrubbing my elbows.
Title: Re: missing link
Post by: theresa in tucson on May 19, 2016, 12:51:26 AM
It's the computer age and sitting at a desk in front of a monitor for a long time.  The fit ladies at Palmer and Pletsch have noted the forward shoulder and high round back alterations necessary for a good fit are showing up at younger and younger ages.