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91
Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by Dunc on September 03, 2018, 08:49:20 PM »
Spotted this topic so thought I'd register and pass on what little experience I have, having made my Daks top trousers recently...

Regarding the elastic, I used 1" trouser elastic from B & B, which seems ideal for the task: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/accessories/haberdashery/1-trouser-elastic/. I re-enforced the button tabs with pocketing. At the CB, I cut the elastic around an inch short of the CB seam and sewed it to another piece of pocketing, which I then sewed into the waistband interfacing and caught in the CB seam... This was to avoid having the thickness of the elastic in the seam (a tip from another C & T thread). The one commercially-made pair of Daks tops I have just have the elastic caught in the seam - although they have been altered, so I'm not 100% sure exactly what the construction was like when they were new.

I'm pretty happy with how they turned out.
92
Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by spookietoo on September 03, 2018, 02:20:55 PM »
TG - Thank you for that link to C&T. I bing'd it several times but that post never came up. C&T is wonderful haystacks filled with needles - just can't always find the one you're looking for!

I think Henry answered most of my questions - pretty much describing what I had in mind. Not quite sure what width of elastic would be best, but that may turn out to be a personal preference thing.

Thanks again!
93
General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on September 03, 2018, 01:20:54 PM »
:)
94
Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by Theoretically Grey on September 03, 2018, 06:30:04 AM »
On the C&T forum is a thread concerning DAKS http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4327. I don't think that it answers all your questions, but it might help a little bit. Personaly I don't have any experience with DAKS trousers.
95
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by Mr.gustavsson on September 03, 2018, 05:13:06 AM »
Dart is to wide. And, to long.
An inlays should be up the seat seam, and let out where needs to be.
Many tailors pin the bottoms up; 8 inches is a good height from the floor.
The waistband should be as long as the seat inlays are wide.
Some tailors add inlays on the back sideseams. The waistband needs to include this length.

I will have a second look at that dart, and remember inlays - more seam allowance in general.
96
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by Mr.gustavsson on September 03, 2018, 05:08:40 AM »
Not bad.
Here what I think:
First rule: don't do the lines in the pic. mark them on the fabric! So we can see the grain line. Do the back hip line especially
And do not fold or roll up the hem, cut it. Better to short then too long for a muslin.
You can shorten the waist line after fitting - no problem.
 you have 2 major problems, You have a flat bum and knocked knees. So look in the internet how to alter that. And at hip it is not a smidge (:-))
maybe 4 - 6 cm I would guess. And measure for high hip please.
Do the blue line a bit more fluently when curving into the original. 
lg
posaune
When doing a first attempt to draft a pants - this is my opinion - on should  do the style the book gives - style variations can addressed later. A smaller knee width can give some problems with the crotch.

Thanks! I will do the alterations you suggested next weekend.

I had markings for hip/crotch/knee on the fabric but they weren't visible enough on the photos, so i added the lines. Will make sure to mark them better next time. And the curves on the pattern is just a mock up to show the style and measurements. I don't transfer the exact lines. I could photograph my paper patterns instead if that's better.
97
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by Greger on September 03, 2018, 04:55:08 AM »
Dart is to wide. And, to long.
An inlays should be up the seat seam, and let out where needs to be.
Many tailors pin the bottoms up; 8 inches is a good height from the floor.
The waistband should be as long as the seat inlays are wide.
Some tailors add inlays on the back sideseams. The waistband needs to include this length.
98
General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by Greger on September 03, 2018, 04:30:33 AM »
Want to wear tights?
If I did that I'd fill the morgue.
People, with one look, would die laughing.
99
Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by spookietoo on September 03, 2018, 03:54:22 AM »
This is the most comprehensive description I've found on the net:

http://www.keikari.com/english/a-history-of-the-daks-waistband/

Not sure if I posted link correct - not good at it on my phone.  Typing "keikari.com daks" got me there.

I've just never cared for the look or feel of an elastic waist, but for now I need something to keep the britches up. :(

Just a more polished look, and moving the buttons as I lose weight should be simple.
100
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by posaune on September 03, 2018, 02:50:08 AM »
Not bad.
Here what I think:
First rule: don't do the lines in the pic. mark them on the fabric! So we can see the grain line. Do the back hip line especially
And do not fold or roll up the hem, cut it. Better to short then too long for a muslin.
You can shorten the waist line after fitting - no problem.
 you have 2 major problems, You have a flat bum and knocked knees. So look in the internet how to alter that. And at hip it is not a smidge (:-))
maybe 4 - 6 cm I would guess. And measure for high hip please.
Do the blue line a bit more fluently when curving into the original. 
lg
posaune
When doing a first attempt to draft a pants - this is my opinion - on should  do the style the book gives - style variations can addressed later. A smaller knee width can give some problems with the crotch.
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