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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by posaune on September 03, 2018, 02:50:08 AM »
Not bad.
Here what I think:
First rule: don't do the lines in the pic. mark them on the fabric! So we can see the grain line. Do the back hip line especially
And do not fold or roll up the hem, cut it. Better to short then too long for a muslin.
You can shorten the waist line after fitting - no problem.
 you have 2 major problems, You have a flat bum and knocked knees. So look in the internet how to alter that. And at hip it is not a smidge (:-))
maybe 4 - 6 cm I would guess. And measure for high hip please.
Do the blue line a bit more fluently when curving into the original. 
When doing a first attempt to draft a pants - this is my opinion - on should  do the style the book gives - style variations can addressed later. A smaller knee width can give some problems with the crotch.
The Apprentice's Forum / My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by Mr.gustavsson on September 03, 2018, 01:01:15 AM »

This is my first attempt at making a pair of trousers. I bought the "Patternmaking for Menswear" book and used their flat front trouser pattern. I have also included a drawing of the pattern I made in Illustrator. I made one alteration to the original pattern by narrowing the legs 5/8" on the knee line and 1" at the hemline (my alteration is in blue).

My aim is to make a pair of "modern" slim fitting trousers that are worn on the hips. I will probably use s120 wool.

My thoughts after wearing my first toile:

1. The waist is ridiculously high. I can just drop the waist line without it impacting any other measures right?
2. They feel a bit too snug around the hip line. I believe that is visible in the photo taken from the back. Increase the hip line measurement just a smidge?
3. The crotch look a mess. There seems to be too much fabric around the crotch and in the back. In the back they also flare out to the sides.

The three red lines in the photos are Hip/Crotch/Knee lines. The knee lines up well to the pattern.

Happy for any feedback!


General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on September 02, 2018, 08:49:30 PM »
I was thinking, maybe this draft would work with very stretchy cloth?
Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by posaune on September 02, 2018, 08:40:14 PM »
well maybe not everyone knows what a daks is? (I do not)
When doing a, elastic in a waist band, I would not do a back center seam in the waist band (like in men's trouser - for easier alterations). I would avoid bulk in every form. The elastic just run in the back  - in front a nice plain good interlined waist band.
General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by Greger on September 02, 2018, 05:47:01 PM »
They probably enjoy making stuff.
And no tailor around to answer questions.
Construction Reference / Daks waist construction?
« Last post by spookietoo on September 02, 2018, 01:22:26 PM »
Dunc posted this topic on C&T a month ago with no I thought I'd ask here.

I'd been contemplating something similar on my next waistband - belts, braces/suspenders not being a viable option for me, but I really like the look of this treatment - doesn't look like "old lady pants".

I had already planned a seam in the center back waist, and I'm assuming the elastic in the daks is sewn in place at this point thus allowing the elastic to float in the tunnel, separately on each side, with the tab ends buttoned in place to prevent rolling. Am I correct in thinking the elastic is reinforced by being stitched to a layer of fabric or should I be looking for a specific type of elastic?

Any pointers on this one would be truly appreciated!
General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by spookietoo on September 02, 2018, 12:23:50 PM »
I've given up on home sewing sites. Eventually the "mean girls" take over and heaven forbid anyone disagree with/correct one of the "worshipped" members.

Plus - Greger - there's the added amazement of how many are paying $12- $15 /yd to make the same ill-fitting assymetrical polyester schlock available OTR for $15.99 finished! Just baffles me.....

General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by Greger on September 02, 2018, 05:18:12 AM »
She must have made lousy clothes if store bought is better.
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / chest canvas construction question
« Last post by Philipdep on September 02, 2018, 03:11:50 AM »
I was recently talking to someone about the construction of the chest canvas in both his camelhair (Harrisons of Edinburgh) and velvet (Holland and Sherry) topcoat. He said that the hymo in both are the same but in the camelhair, the chest pice only consists of a layer of wool fleece, and in the velvet it's just a layer of cotton moleskin. He says that neither have any horsehair or a second layer of canvas. Is there precedent for this kind of construction? It seems like it would lose shape after a while, or am I off-base on this one?

General Discussion / Re: Balancing pants patterns
« Last post by hutch-- on September 02, 2018, 03:11:43 AM »
I think the "design" information you are referring to would be better described as  the "Sack of spuds look". I am not a fashionista and more a pragmatic slob but I have seen some of the most appalling junk peddled as clothing and often at rediculous prices as well. I have a friend that I occasionally have a coffee with who stopped making her own stuff and buys clothing on the internet and some of it is truly awful.
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