Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: peterle on March 26, 2020, 12:35:42 AM

Title: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: peterle on March 26, 2020, 12:35:42 AM
I found this article about ironwork on trousers. Itīs from "Oesterreichische Schneider-Zeitung" wich is the Austrian offspring of the Rundschau magazines. Issue May 1966. In this time the Rundschau Verlag promoted their pattern templates and showed also how to use them.


(https://i.postimg.cc/hXVxZF7Y/hosendressur1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXVxZF7Y)



(https://i.postimg.cc/R3XW2vCg/hosendressur2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3XW2vCg)



(https://i.postimg.cc/0zCjJ9S9/hosendressur3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zCjJ9S9)



(https://i.postimg.cc/5YQfpJXY/hosendressur4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YQfpJXY)
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 26, 2020, 08:20:49 AM
That's great thanks peterle,
.
G
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: jeffrey on March 26, 2020, 12:21:10 PM
Thank you peterle.
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: TTailor on March 26, 2020, 11:39:03 PM
Thats so clearly explained/ shown! Thank you
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: peterle on March 27, 2020, 03:02:05 AM
Yes, itīs pretty self explanatory except Abbildung 7 and Abbildung 14:

Abbildung 7: With a slight bias pull the underside crease line gets straightend (in the pattern it is a bit slanted from the knees upwards). Afterwards the crease line can be ironed in quite easily.

Abbildung 14: Topside and underside have to match after ironwork from hem to the pocket pitch mark. Of the pitch marks from the pattern template only the knee marks will match, the lower mark and the pocket mark will be off about 0,5cm. These amounts have to be eased in (wavy chalk lines). Thus you avoid the trousers to cling to the calfs, wich is quite common in slim fitting trousers. Be sure to join top and underside flush from 15cm above the knee notch to 5cm below it. Otherwise  you would neutralize the ironwork.

Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork
Post by: Kiem on March 28, 2020, 11:42:55 PM
Aah these are wonderfull, thanks!!

For my trousers, I mark the knee line on the back side 1 cm or 3/8 inch upward (closed to the fork-line).
This shortens the knee-line to fork, and lengthens the knee-line to hem on the back part only. No changes are made to the front side!

I then stretch the inseam and side seam on the back part by this amount, until the knee and the fork markings match the front parts.
I make a few markings to check wether I stretch the back part by the right amount.

Is this also done in the pictures posted above? Or is this a different method?

(https://i.postimg.cc/ts6CmrZ4/4188623276-b2fa60cba6-b.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ts6CmrZ4)