Massschnitte und Passform by Guido Hofenbitzer
is such a great book.
It deals with women's taioring, which for those who don't know is All about fitting and adjustments. Many of these principles are applicable to Men's tailoring too.
The book only exists in German at this time. So although I do not post large articles in translation of recent publications, I have thought for some time that I could share one page that I have translated, in order to demonstrate the value of this book.
I present this single page (122) on sleeve alterations for Private Study Only.
Correction of Body Measurements (1)
Adjust Armhole to the Upper Arm Circumference
The size of the armhole stands in relation to the size of the upper arm circumference (OaU). The arm diameter (ArD) and the armhole depth (AlT) determine the dimensions of the armhole (see D1 and D2).
The ArD and the AlT must therefore match the OaU, since both measurements must be calculated from the chest circumference, and certainly not from the upper arm circumference, they must be adapted for figures with non-proportional upper arm circumference.
In the size chart the dimensions are specified so that OaU, ArD and AlT always harmonise.
Enlargement of the armhole
A figure with a significantly large upper arm needs a larger width and depth, otherwise the arm is not comfortable in the armhole and the sleeve is too tight for this design.
□1 Enlarged Armhole. ArD and AlT are enlarged here for the big armhole.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d7VXsRvW/Armloch-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7VXsRvW)
The depth of the armhole is determined by the armhole depth (calculation Alt)
□ 2. Here the armhole diameter and the upper arm circumference are matching.
(https://i.postimg.cc/34HtygH5/Armloch-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34HtygH5)
□ 3. Here the calculated armhole diameter is too small for the large upper arm circumference.
(https://i.postimg.cc/23rHrFwn/Armloch-3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23rHrFwn)
□3 here the problem of a too small ArD with a large OaU is illustrated in cross-section.
In the present case, the lady has a chest circumference of 96 cm, thus size 42. The upper arm, though, circumference corresponds to a size 46.
Hint: the measurements calculated in the formula table often differ slightly from the measurements in the size chart.
Correction of Body Measurements:
(https://i.postimg.cc/qzgxvmC6/Armloch-4-5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzgxvmC6)
1 after taking measurements the measured OaU is sought in the size table and the appropriate ArD is noted (here 12.1). If the OaU lies between two sizes the new ArD is estimated between the two ArD values.
2 if the ArD found in this way differs from the calculated ArD by more than 0.5 cm, the larger ArD from the table should be used.
3 the appropriate AlT is chosen according to the new ArD.
4 the values of RüB and BrB must be reduced so that the sum of RüB + ArD + BrB once again gives the half of the measured BrU.
Determine the difference between the new and the old ArD:
12.1 cm (here 12 cm) - 11 cm = 1 cm
RüB and BrB are reduced by half the difference:
Rüb neu = RüB - 0,5 cm = 17 cm
BrB neu = BrB - 0,5 cm = 19 cm
Correction of Body Measurements (2)
Adjust Armhole to the Upper Arm Circumference
(https://i.postimg.cc/0b67sbLp/Armloch-6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0b67sbLp)
□ 6 Reduced Armhole. Here ArD and AlT are only moderately reduced for the slender OaU.
Reduction of the ArD
A reduction of the armhole for a smaller upper arm circumference should be made very carefully, if at all. As a rule it is necessary to avoid this, so that the sleeve is not too narrow and therefore appears disproportionate to the upper body. In this case one accepts a somewhat wider sleeve.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BX1PzRKp/Armloch-7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX1PzRKp)
□7 Here, the calculated ArD is too large for the slender OaU.
Enlarging the armhole at the finished upper body draft for a big upper arm circumference.
Often, while drafting a classic sleeve one finds that despite the correct construction, the sleeve is too small.
Presumably, the armhole diameter and the armhole depth were not previously matched with the upper arm circumference.
It may also be, that one wishes to cut the finished armhole that proves to be too small. In this case, one must enlarge armhole on the finished upper part pattern.