Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Good Books To Own => Topic started by: Hendrick on January 23, 2019, 01:54:52 AM

Title: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 23, 2019, 01:54:52 AM
Hello All,
I ordered these last week. It is a method for "coupe a plat", flat pattern making for womenswear; I rather see them as "raw drafts". The method consists of three books and focusses on various constructions. Although less mathematical and "formular" as Rundschau, at first glance it looks interesting though slightly linear. with a strong emphasis on "first glance"; the three books together comprise over 1800 pages!
They have a website: dpstudio-fashion.com...
Let me know what you experts think!


(https://i.postimg.cc/9wHqzbdp/1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wHqzbdp)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KRNgvnRP/2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRNgvnRP)

(https://i.postimg.cc/K471Jn76/3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K471Jn76)

(https://i.postimg.cc/NKnF5bYH/4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKnF5bYH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1gN0vJKG/5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gN0vJKG)

(https://i.postimg.cc/s12xy1t8/6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s12xy1t8)
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: TTailor on January 23, 2019, 10:46:34 PM
They look interesting.
Let us know if you try some of them. Give us a review!
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 23, 2019, 11:07:22 PM
Hi Terry,

Will do; I have to build a loose fit slack for a linnen denim I just sampled and waiting for… I will keep you informed.

Greets, Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Henry Hall on January 24, 2019, 04:10:11 AM
Hmm, so what's the exact meaning of 'Pantalon cigarette taille'? Is the cigarette waist on the trousers or the person? ;D Or are they cigarette sized?
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 24, 2019, 06:58:50 AM

Hi,

Cigarette is a French "style description" for narrow ladies'slacks with narrow bottoms, bu supple enough to hold a fold...
But then, they also call a roped sleeve head in a jacket cigarette, "parlez-vous francais?"

Greets, Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Henry Hall on January 24, 2019, 08:23:29 AM
 Oui, je parle Francais. Comme un écolier (très mal). 8)
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 24, 2019, 11:14:12 AM
Noted, you may want to steer around these volumes then...

Cheers, Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: posaune on January 24, 2019, 09:59:53 PM
Hendrick,
welcome on board.
Gratulations to your buy.
One question: How do they derrive the shoulder bust dart. Maybe you can give me an idea?
lg
posaune
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 24, 2019, 10:48:54 PM
Hi Posaune…

I will take som (better!) scans and pics and post them soonest…
Have to take a look first, there are a whopping 2400 pages; I suppose you are also interested in the  base setups. They are paperbacks (much like an old telephone directory) so near impossible to put under a scanner.
But I'll be back soon.

kindest, Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 24, 2019, 11:24:56 PM
So great to see some French literature on the subject. :) Gramountoto posted some older texts a while ago.
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 25, 2019, 12:01:56 AM
Hello,

I'having a hard time scanning; the books will not stay flat! I have a little app on my Phone, called Tiny scanner that doesn't do what I would like it to… Again, these are very big books and full of base constructions. I also scanned some images on pivoting (a French favourite pastime in any pattershop!), there is actually a whole chapter on pivoting alone. Importantly, these are base constructions, made for adapting and tinkering, not as "styled" as so many other methods that carry a distinct "time stamp"...

Cheers, sorry for the lousy images  Hendrick
(https://i.postimg.cc/m1sBvsx7/534.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1sBvsx7)

(https://i.postimg.cc/tZhHtM1J/542.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZhHtM1J)

(https://i.postimg.cc/4mwsSqWh/543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mwsSqWh)

(https://i.postimg.cc/sGmdbG4R/544.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGmdbG4R)

(https://i.postimg.cc/McfwXTqy/545.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/McfwXTqy)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1Vs1Wr6H/546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1Vs1Wr6H)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ygqHRH82/547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygqHRH82)

(https://i.postimg.cc/SjhXF0fZ/548.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjhXF0fZ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/jDFKsN0x/549.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDFKsN0x)
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: peterle on January 25, 2019, 12:34:38 AM
Please keep in mind it is problematic to post copyrighted  up to date material. Eventually you better exchange it by personal message.
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 25, 2019, 02:20:56 AM
Thanks for that, I will keep that in mind. Luckily it is only a tiny part...

Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: posaune on January 25, 2019, 03:57:51 AM
thank you Hendrick. Just one question more: In the base construction (page193) how do they get from A to A'?
I am interested only in systems which construct this space NOT with a certain number.
And you do not need to scan it. 
lg
posaune
the pivoting is nice
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Hendrick on January 25, 2019, 05:58:51 AM
Hi Posaune,

I suppose you mean the shoulder dart in the back part? The shoulder back pattern in this carcass is corrected for slope according to the front measurements.  I will send you a pm on it, too difficult in words only...


cheers, Hendrick
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: posaune on January 25, 2019, 10:38:01 PM
THank you Hendrick - but no- soory for my english - it is the front bust dart! Nowadays with so many big busted ladies it is important for me to get it right in the beginning and not to alter the pattern later so much. This saves a lot of time. So  before I buy I would like to know about it.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: DP Studio, Paris, method
Post by: Henry Hall on January 26, 2019, 03:14:06 AM
I fear these problems of ladies' wear. Over the summer, to get back into sewing, I made a few pieces for my (female) neighbour, a summer dress, waistcoat and linen trousers.

Luckily she has a rather proportionate figure, but a fairly large bust in comparison to waist*. It gave me no end of bother. Getting the waistcoat opening to sit correctly was a headache. I bow down to those who cut and sew for women.


*Since she started her new job and cycles a lot it went gone down a couple of centimetres...after the initial measures, worse luck!