Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Advanced Apprentices => Topic started by: lngn2 on January 07, 2019, 09:44:44 PM

Title: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: lngn2 on January 07, 2019, 09:44:44 PM
Recently posted on the Cutter and Tailor forum so apologies to those who've already seen this BUT if it helps anyone in future I've uploaded a video of me part shaping a leg of a pair of trousers I'm making at present. These were lightly shaped before sewing up so this is additional shaping. Sorry it doesn't show the whole thing but my camera was playing up at first so I lost the shaping of the topside...! https://youtu.be/X4ixf6UH2vU (https://youtu.be/X4ixf6UH2vU)

There's also an image of the underside of another pair I'm making post shaping/pre-sewing up (these would likely take more shape actually) at
https://www.instagram.com/p/BrlWbknne0N/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet (https://www.instagram.com/p/BrlWbknne0N/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet)
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: lngn2 on January 07, 2019, 09:50:13 PM
The final rest should look like this (my photo, not my work!) https://www.instagram.com/p/Brn8HBUn39g/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet (https://www.instagram.com/p/Brn8HBUn39g/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet)
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: posaune on January 08, 2019, 02:04:23 AM
nice work!
A question: with pressing the sewn trouser I have always difficulties with the lining in front. I cut it a bit wider. Pressing the front grainline (pleat??) gets difficult. Has one one a tip??
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: lngn2 on January 08, 2019, 02:23:52 AM
Pousaune - do you mean in terms of making sure it stretches too? I've allowed about 1cm of ease (in both directions) on the lining here and haven't noticed a problem. Do you baste through the grainline/crease to hold everthing in place? Whether this is correct I don't know but I'll ask some pros (vs my amateur efforts) and will let you know what they say.
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: posaune on January 09, 2019, 10:41:52 PM
 :-[  Do you baste through the grainline/crease to hold everthing in place?  :-[

I wanted not to avoid that. I'm speaking here of a finished trouser. (I had to alter 2 of them last week - ächz)
till now  I helped myself in that way:  I pull the front  lining into the back leg - knee to fly , press the crease till it is possible.
Then put the lining back and handle the upper part with the help of some pins. But there must be an easier way!
Has anyone (someone?? word?) a link  to a you tube video??
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: Hendrick on July 03, 2019, 06:21:48 AM


Oops, forgot this one, yes, the trick is to push the lining "in to" the trouser fold with a thin, long teflon ruler… and pre-press it. Once settled, pull it out and press the fold. In the old days used to be done with a piece of ivory karton...

Cheers, Hendrick
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: posaune on July 05, 2019, 08:27:25 PM
I have to try this, thanks Hendrik.
It is hot and all trousers have no lining now - what an easy ironing.
Lg
posaune
Title: Re: Trouser Ironwork Video
Post by: Hendrick on July 06, 2019, 03:39:54 AM

Hi,

I'd wait a little; out here it is scorching hot...