Bespoke Cutter And Tailor
Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Patternmaking Reference => Topic started by: Henry Hall on March 10, 2016, 09:36:14 AM

This is a reliable, plain front trouser draft originally published at the C&T forum by professional member Mansie Wauch (also a member here). It could be recommended for anyone coming here and trying out a trouser draft for the first time because it is more suited to modern styles than the older drafts might produce for some people.
BASIC TROUSER DRAFT (plain fronts)
Measurements.
Outside leg 102cm
Inside leg 76cm
Waist 84cm
Seat 100cm
Knee 52cm
Bottoms 44cm
TOPSIDE
Lay out your diagram paper. Draw a line down the paper about 20cm in from edge.
Make line equal to the side seam length.
Locate point 1 at the top right of paper.
2 from 1 = the rise measure less 3cm.
3 from 2 = the inside leg measure.
4 from 3 = 1/2 the leg measure + 5cm to locate the knee position.
Square both ways from 1, 2, 3, and 4.
5 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure 6 from 2 = 1/6 of the seat measure.
Divide 5 and 2 to locate 7, (Equal to 1/12 seat.)
Square up from 7 to locate 8 on the line squared across from 1
Measure back on the line 8  1; make this equal to 1/4 of the waist measure + 2cm locate point 9 (This is the front waist line.)
10 From 7 = 1cm, Connect 10 to 8
11 From 7 = 1/12 of the seat, square back 1/4 of the seat measure to locate 12
Draw a short line at a 45% angle from 7 and locate 13 equal to 4.5cm.
Starting on the line 8 to 10, at point just above 11, draw a curve down through 13 into point 5(This gives you the front fly line.)
14 and 15 = Half the knee measure divided equally each side of point 4
16 and 17 = Half the bottom measure divided equally each side of point 3
Now, connect point 5 through point 14 down to point 16 for the inside leg seam.
Connect point 9 with a gentle curve, down through point 12 to point 6 and onto point 15 at the knee and down into point 17 at the bottom of the leg.
(This gives you the side seam run, point 15 to 17 can be drawn with a straight line.)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20130511003734im_/http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/Album%202010/TrouserDraft1.jpg)
This completes the topside.
UNDERSIDE
Measure out 2cm from points 14, 15, 16, 17, and locate 14a, 15a, 16a, and 17a.
Measure out 5cm from point 5 and locate 5a.Shape the inside leg seam.
Measure from point 14 to 5 and make 14a to 5a the same measure. (Point 5a will drop below the line squared from 5.
18 From 11 = the same distance as 7 to 11 (1/12 of the seat).
19 is midway between 5 and 7. Draw a line from 19 through 18 and continue the line above the top of the trouser.
Locate point 20 on the intersection of the front waist line. (This gives you your seat angle.)
21 From 20 = the same as 5 to 19.
Shape the back seat seam by curving from the seat angle at a point opposite point 11 and run into point 5a with a gentle curve.
To give a clean seam at the back, don’t make the curve any more than 1.5cm from the fly line.
22 from 21 = 1/4 of the waist + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from 9.
23 is measured from point 18 and = 1/4 of the seat + 5cm and is located on the line squared out from point 12.
Shape the side seam from 22 through point 23 and continue down to points 14a to 17a.
Measure midway between points 21 and 22, make point 24 1cm back towards point 22. Square down from the waistline about 8cm for back dart.
Complete the dart by dividing 1.5cm each side of the dart line= 3cm. Mark dart as shown.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20130511003734im_/http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/Album%202010/TrouserDraft2.jpg)
This completes the draft.