Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Ready To Wear Showcase => RTW and MTM Discussion => Topic started by: posaune on April 25, 2017, 02:29:03 AM

Title: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: posaune on April 25, 2017, 02:29:03 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3FzHvtiBoE&list=PLCkrIKFL8hRa1Wb6O20_A5n72wGIRRSaM&index=1
This is a series about sewing a jacket. Very quick and very nice to see.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Schneiderfrei on April 25, 2017, 08:28:35 AM
Thank you posaune.  A simple overview is always useful. And its in English - He he.

G
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: hutch-- on April 25, 2017, 01:00:22 PM
Looks good !
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Greger on April 26, 2017, 06:45:08 AM
Seems to be an unnecessary amount of fuse. Only watched the clip shown above. For a seasonal jacket why would anyone put in ten thousand stitches. The other website I was bombarded with every jacket has to be made with the same amount of work. Not to much, nor under amount, as though they would know. I say put in enough for that particular garment for its intended purpose. A seasonal jacket will look fine with very little work. A 30 year jacket needs much more work. Good find, Posaune.
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: lepus on April 28, 2017, 09:48:23 AM
The Queensland University of Technology, that published this series has many more, over 150 I counted today, videos produced, including basic operation of a (Japanese type) knitting machine. They are obviously meant to offer fashion and design students some help in constructing sample garments and provide an overlap between designer and sample maker. I can't see much tailoring quality, there won't be many tailoring establishments that mark the parts with a cloth drill, for example. The construction of what they called a welt pocket, but is actually a jetted pocket, in parts 5 and 6 disappointed me: thin-lipped variety, cutting through the jettings. Why is there so much confusion about terminology? Is it an American influence? Many languages have clearly different terms for the different pocket types, in German for instance Leistentasche (welt pocket) vs. Paspeltasche (jetted pocket). Increasingly one sees on blogs etc. that they are all called welt pockets. Stop the rot!

Here are all the videos listed:
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfC1gMvFLt-gQjsuuRv0u0A/videos?&ytbChannel=QUTFashionStudio (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfC1gMvFLt-gQjsuuRv0u0A/videos?&ytbChannel=QUTFashionStudio)
For a similar, but different approach, the West Valley College videos of the Fashion Department may also be interesting.
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Tailleuse on April 28, 2017, 01:17:52 PM
The construction of what they called a welt pocket, but is actually a jetted pocket


lepus:

I often encounter confusing or seemingly conflicting information. At first I thought that that welt and jetted pockets must be different, but then I began to believe they were the same thing. Can you describe the difference, or link to some descriptions or photos?
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: posaune on April 28, 2017, 05:21:32 PM
Lepsus
that is the cause why I have chosen for this the RTW or MTM  Discussion. For me it is like looking porn (if I may say this).
And yes, the terminology is very confused.  In Germany many of the home sewer know more american/english terminus technicus than the german. If I mention the german word "StŁtznaht" I get some empty stare  if I say the  stay stitching  everybody knows what I'm talking about.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Hendrick on September 05, 2019, 04:53:29 PM

I noticed this discussion a tad late. But I guess Lepus is onto something;the blurring of jargon is striking... But in my experience, it has everything to do with outsourcing and the preparation of "tech-packs"that are sent out to far away suppliers. I, for one, noticed that every form of binding, welting etc. is called "tape"in these "documents"... No matter if it comes on rols, is cut out of outer fabric ("shell fabric", lately), is woven or knitted, fusible, cut to the bias or not and regardless the thickness; it is called "tape". Same for "topstitch"; any visible stitching is referred to as "topstitch", regardless the function, if anyÖ Best I've yet seen; referring to the the inside of a garment as "bad side of the fabric". So, um, be prepared to roll over...
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: posaune on September 05, 2019, 06:23:47 PM
hehe I can understand this term.  I'm moving and the "bad side of fabric" is that I have horded too much.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: spookietoo on October 06, 2019, 07:31:42 PM
Thanks for posting this posaune - it finally forced me to explore the terms "jetted" vs "welt" vs "besom".

It seems "jetted" is official British tailoring usage and usually I would attempt to adapt such usage. But.....American home sewing has referred to "jetted" as "welt" pockets for years....actually decades. Then there is also the difference between mens' and womens' jacket/coat design. It is not at all unusual -or wierd- to see hip pockets on a womans' jacket constructed virtually identical to a traditional mans' breast pocket. This would probably be how "single welt" and "double welt" jargon was created. The only time I can recall seeing this hip usage on a mans' jacket is on very casual, non-tailored - menswear.

So, right or wrong, I'll just stick to the term , "welt pocket" myself, though I will try to be more specific on this forum if need be.

The red stuff we eat on french fries (UK "chips") here in the states is called, "ketchup". Pronounced similar to, "catch-up".  The word was originally spelled, "catsup", though everyone said ketchup. Except for my third grade teacher, Mrs. Cunningham. She forbade us from mispronouncing the word. We had to say, "cat-sup". I spent what must have been a very annoying year correcting every adult that "mispronounced" the word. I finally gave up.

I can't remember the last time I purchased a bottle of the red stuff that didn't have the word "ketchup" on the front label. "Catsup" is extinct. Language changes.

My pet peeve: "button down shirt". Up until 15-20 years ago, that descriptive always denoted a very specific style of shirt for both men and women - a shirt with a collar that buttoned down. Now, due to internet shopping, and generations of people that never bothered to learn terminology (even though their dads were still wearing "button downs", the term has been mis-appropriated and now causes confusion. Heaven help anyone trying to buy an actual button down. I was recently in a retail store that actually signed the mens' dress shirts as "button front" shirts. Made me want to kiss somebody....and meant I'm not the only human ticked with this.

Oh well... sorry for the diversion...off to view the video......
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Greger on October 10, 2019, 03:49:46 PM
Button Up and Button Down.
Button Down are the collar buttons.
Button Up are the buttons for closing the front.
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Henry Hall on December 24, 2019, 09:19:43 AM
Quote from: Greger
Button Up are the buttons for closing the front.

Even though most people button downwards from top to bottom!

I don't know why Americans call a shirt a 'button down' shirt. We all know a shirt has buttons so what other kind of 'shirt' could it be referring to?
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Schneiderfrei on December 24, 2019, 11:41:28 AM
He he ..  Merry Christmas Henry Hall, and everyone else.

G
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Greger on December 26, 2019, 06:24:05 AM
Some Western Shirts (Cowboy) have Snaps. They have some advantages to buttons. Both methods are nice.

Merry Christmas To All!
Title: Re: like to look sewing a jacket
Post by: Schneiderfrei on December 26, 2019, 09:42:01 AM
And to you Greger.  I hope the nesxt year is a good one.

G