Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Historical And Period Costumes => Costumers Forum => Topic started by: jruley on April 01, 2016, 11:26:31 AM

Title: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: jruley on April 01, 2016, 11:26:31 AM
Here are some photos of a frock coat I just completed for a gentleman who does presentations as Theodore Roosevelt.  The body was drafted using Frederick Croonborg's 1907 "Blue Book of Men's Tailoring".  In addition to being contemporary, this book includes a corpulent draft for a frock, which was useful given the client's 49 inch chest and waist.  The proportionate draft fit well except around the shoulders, but the issues were easily corrected by applying the direct measures for shoulder slope and depth of scye.  The sleeve was drafted to fit the scye using the same author's "Red book".

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/front_zps5cg3debn.jpg)

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/collar_zpsvm0glbzt.jpg)

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/facing_zpsou7ojtwl.jpg)

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/sleeve_zpshzrk8mij.jpg)

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/pocket_zpsh8vk8mrm.jpg)

(http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w315/ruleyjm/back_zpsfey5uizt.jpg)
Title: Re: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: hutch-- on April 01, 2016, 11:40:34 AM
Looks good Jim, an interesting period piece.
Title: Re: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: Henry Hall on April 01, 2016, 08:34:28 PM
I've never seen Croonborg's Red Book.

Nice finish on the armhole Mr Ruley and a splendid inside breast pocket. Could the right hand lapel be missing a little sharpness at its point? Maybe, but it's an oh-so minor complaint.

Chapeau vous monsieur!
Title: Re: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: jruley on April 01, 2016, 11:43:31 PM
I've never seen Croonborg's Red Book.


Circa 1917, available on Google Books:

https://books.google.com/books?id=qTUyAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA8&dq=red+book+of+tailoring&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjf88qmu-3LAhXJKB4KHchaCSUQ6AEIOTAF#v=onepage&q=red%20book%20of%20tailoring&f=false

Title: Re: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: pfaff260 on April 01, 2016, 11:49:07 PM
For every one to read.
https://archive.org/details/newsupremesystem00croo

Title: Re: Mr Roosevelt's Frock Coat
Post by: Henry Hall on April 02, 2016, 03:21:33 AM
For every one to read.
https://archive.org/details/newsupremesystem00croo

Dank u zeer meneer..!