Author Topic: 1959 Rundschau jacket drafting  (Read 6033 times)

posaune

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Re: 1959 Rundschau jacket drafting
« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2016, 11:36:18 PM »
There are several drafts in it
Standard draft is 176 cm     8.5 and 7.5
DB (180) 9 and 8
draft for a long and slim figure, Bodyheight 184 here the  first distance is 9 and the second is 8 (if you have high shoulders it is the same)
draft for a short figure , Bodyheight is 160  cm                    first distance is 7.5 and the second is 65       
for belly (176) 9.5, 7.5
for thick belly (180) 10 and 8 
a golf coat (180)  has patch pockets. They start at 9 and 8.   
The only remark about the pockets is that the last button should be  1 - 1.5 under the pocket, but in the text under the picture is written that you have to use the latest fashion.       
Maybe that helps.
lg
posaune             

fORGET IT ALL:
I found it. The second distance on the At-H-G line is 1/10 of 1/2 Body height - 2-2.5 cm
I found it in the draftings from a student of the Mueller School originated from 1969! He was later a master tailor here in Frankfurt.
There is for a short figur  for slanted pockets in front 2 cm higher and in back on At-G line ca. 1.5 cm deeper  or from waist 1. 4-5 deeper and at At-G 3 cm                   

TTailor

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Re: 1959 Rundschau jacket drafting
« Reply #16 on: September 28, 2016, 08:14:08 AM »
Thanks!
As I was doing some work today I also found a reference to it in Zuschnitt der Herrenkleidung, an undated photocopy of a book that someone gave to me.
The calculation says 1/4 Tl minus 2 cm.

But....I will have to check the height for the sample draft to see if it corresponds.

Posaune, those calculations are great, thank you for posting them.
Of course style and time period affect the placement and yes I could and often do eyeball the placement, I like to have concrete calculations to fall back on.



peterle

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Re: 1959 Rundschau jacket drafting
« Reply #17 on: September 28, 2016, 09:41:56 PM »
Ive found another formula in "Einheitssystem" East Germany 1952:

H-Ta is 1/4 of the proportional waist depth (Tl) -1cm.  (Tl is 1/4 body heigth, so Ta is 1/16 body heigth -1cm).

Alternative At-Ta is half of the distance At-hemline +2cm.


TTailor

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Re: 1959 Rundschau jacket drafting
« Reply #18 on: September 28, 2016, 10:52:06 PM »
I have some interesting style proportions from a tailoring sales catalogue from 1956-1958 that I will try to get posted in the costumers section when I get a free moment or three!
Mostly visuals but a few numbers as well.