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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by posaune on September 05, 2018, 11:19:14 PM »
yes, thank you for correcting Terry. In German the term is easier (for me) O leg or X leg. It is an O leg
lg
posaune
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by TTailor on September 05, 2018, 10:30:30 PM »
I think bowed legs, rather than knock knees.
Agree otherwise though with what Posaune has said
Check your measurements again, redraft and compare the patterns.
Can you post the draft? It often helps to see what you are working from. Many “modern” drafts are a bit problematic. I understand if not because of copyright.
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by Mr.gustavsson on September 05, 2018, 06:59:52 PM »
Baste a zipper in your mock up. It doesnt have to be a real fly, just get the centre front closed as it will be in the final trouser.
is

Noted! I will redo the entire toile this weekend.
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: My first attempt at making a pair of trousers
« Last post by TTailor on September 05, 2018, 07:56:48 AM »
Baste a zipper in your mock up. It doesnt have to be a real fly, just get the centre front closed as it will be in the final trouser.
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Re: Minimum ease for women's pants
« Last post by Futura on September 05, 2018, 06:18:17 AM »
Okay, thanks for that. That makes a bit more sense.  :)

I'm looking at drafts with front darts. Maybe I will finally bite the bullet and make one for myself.
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Re: Minimum ease for women's pants
« Last post by posaune on September 04, 2018, 10:23:12 PM »
You have ease if you have pleats in the front. If not - the average (semi tight) front construction is done with 1/4 hip -1 cm and back 1/hip + 1. Because of the construction you add at centerfront about 0.5 cm at hip level so you can say it has 1 cm ease (whole pattern) hip level.
lg posaune
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Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by Dunc on September 04, 2018, 06:37:21 PM »
There's a couple of other C & T threads with valuable little tidbits:

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3902

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2223

I did go with my idea of doing the waistband interfacing in two sections, so that the elastic can run inside the interfacing at the back, and it seems to work quite well. However, I would probably use a stiffer interfacing than the linen waistcoat canvas next time.
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Women's Cutter And Tailor / Minimum ease for women's pants
« Last post by Futura on September 04, 2018, 10:03:57 AM »
What is the minimum amount of wearing ease for women's pants/trousers? Is it distributed evenly front and back, or do the undersides have more ease?

I ask as I have seen numerous drafts only specifying "1/4 hip," sometimes plus or minus a few cm between topside and underside but without any reference to ease additions. Are they assuming the wearing ease was already added to the hip circumference?

I'm sure this is blatantly obvious and I'm simply forgetting something! But somehow I don't recall reading about wearing ease for pants in the Mueller texts.
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Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by spookietoo on September 04, 2018, 03:36:49 AM »
Thank you Dunc!

I'm a bit concerned with the pressure my waist circumference will place on this concept so using the pocketing to reduce bulk at the seams and joints sounds like a great solution.

I've picked up 1-1/4" non-roll elastic for my first attempt as my waistband is a bit wider on this initial pair. I'll keep a pic of what you've used for future reference.

My first few pairs will just be cotton twill until I'm satisfied with the cut.

Thanks again!  I think this thread has at least joined all of the relevant information into one spot.
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Construction Reference / Re: Daks waist construction?
« Last post by Dunc on September 03, 2018, 08:49:20 PM »
Spotted this topic so thought I'd register and pass on what little experience I have, having made my Daks top trousers recently...

Regarding the elastic, I used 1" trouser elastic from B & B, which seems ideal for the task: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/accessories/haberdashery/1-trouser-elastic/. I re-enforced the button tabs with pocketing. At the CB, I cut the elastic around an inch short of the CB seam and sewed it to another piece of pocketing, which I then sewed into the waistband interfacing and caught in the CB seam... This was to avoid having the thickness of the elastic in the seam (a tip from another C & T thread). The one commercially-made pair of Daks tops I have just have the elastic caught in the seam - although they have been altered, so I'm not 100% sure exactly what the construction was like when they were new.

I'm pretty happy with how they turned out.
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