Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
21
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by Adriel on January 19, 2019, 03:57:56 AM »
Knew forgot something... posaune, you are correct, the right hip is higher than the left by about 3/8 inches, good eye.
22
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by Adriel on January 19, 2019, 02:57:43 AM »
Photos now are wonderfull.
If you did the alteration to  the 1. sloper, " seems the fabric has stretched with wearing", maybe it has stretched more, because now it is too long at the back and too wide. (I think that fabric is to weak for a pants muslin). And it would stretch were the bias is -  that is mostly at the center back seam. Did you attach the waist band new?
Looking the side view I would say the front is too tight. See that from hip point up to waist band the side seam goes slightly so / . Means let out the front side seam, till it runs straight. This will effect the back (waist) naturally.
You have not done lines where your hip is (horizontal) in front and back - so I have to guess. But I think your pants is now out of balance - the back is too long. The added 2.5 cm may have been a bit too much.
The right hip is higher than the left. To prove this you have to measure from floor up to your waist.
I'll attach a link where you maybe can read some good stuff about fitting a pants (it is for woman but the fitting problems are the same)
https://closetcasepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/
lg
posaune

Okay, glad one thing out of the way.

Sorry, they are light blue, guess too light. Next time use my green marker (my black dried out).

The only time it stretched was when damp from ironing and that felt like only the knees.

No, I left the waistband in, came about an inch from it.

The front is really giving me problems, think in part because the drafts don't include the fly. So how does one allow for this?

Honestly, after last night considering drafting another pattern because not enough fabric for the adjustment despite the additional seam allowances, this time with a wider front and address what Henry said. Do you know that this means "a little shortness at the back crotch point"?
23
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by posaune on January 19, 2019, 12:21:33 AM »
Photos now are wonderfull.
If you did the alteration to  the 1. sloper, " seems the fabric has stretched with wearing", maybe it has stretched more, because now it is too long at the back and too wide. (I think that fabric is to weak for a pants muslin). And it would stretch were the bias is -  that is mostly at the center back seam. Did you attach the waist band new?
Looking the side view I would say the front is too tight. See that from hip point up to waist band the side seam goes slightly so / . Means let out the front side seam, till it runs straight. This will effect the back (waist) naturally.
You have not done lines where your hip is (horizontal) in front and back - so I have to guess. But I think your pants is now out of balance - the back is too long. The added 2.5 cm may have been a bit too much.
The right hip is higher than the left. To prove this you have to measure from floor up to your waist.
I'll attach a link where you maybe can read some good stuff about fitting a pants (it is for woman but the fitting problems are the same)
https://closetcasepatterns.com/pants-fitting-adjustments-best-tips-for-pants-fitting/
lg
posaune
24
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by Adriel on January 18, 2019, 10:05:53 PM »
Have you a picture of your draft?

I drafted on the muslin...
25
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by tom bennett on January 18, 2019, 09:51:55 PM »
Have you a picture of your draft?
26
General Discussion / Bespoke tailoring Academy in North of England
« Last post by Henry Hall on January 18, 2019, 12:21:27 PM »
Thought I'd post this here since I also posted it at C&T:

Here's another academy, in Macclesfield (UK), which seems to be running from, or with the assistance of Hirsch Tailoring (a bespoke tailor I hadn't heard of before). They employ the ABC diploma, which is the system used by the Savile Row Bespoke Association and it can also be study grant supported.

The cost of the 'level 5' course is a hefty 10,000; well... you get 750 change from that sum. It appears to be for only six months. There is another one at 'level 3' for 4000. It's only four months so that's a grand a month. Half the course can be grant-supported.

Something in the North of England for a change instead of concentrated in the capital city.

This is the address:

The Tailoring Academy
Pickford St Mill, 3rd Floor
Pickford Street
Macclesfield SK11 6JD
27
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by Adriel on January 18, 2019, 11:38:07 AM »
The trousers are yet too tight between waist and crotch. The seat angle could also be straighter for such a wide leg.

So first you should add some width in the center back seam: add 1,5cm to the left from point M and redraft the seat seam fading the new line into the old line at point 5.

Do the same at the center front: add 1cm to the left at point 8 and redraft the center front line vertically and fade the new line into the old somewhere between point 10 and 5.

We also need profile pics to see the run of the side seam.

I hope you have enough inlays in your sloper for the alterations.

Thank you!

As I said, I put in a side in addition to the front and back, as requested. Are they still not showing? Not that matters since now onto the second.

I have to say, apart from the minor seat seam tightness (and maybe a little shortness at the back crotch point) these are quite good compared to some other 'first try' trousers that have been posted over the years.

Pretty wide legs though....Oxford bags here we come!

Thank you.

Shortness? Meaning raise 23 higher?

As I said, going of a late '40s suit pants; never heard of Oxford bags. My body measurements are 36 inch hips, 23 inch thighs, 16 inches at the knee, and 10 inches at the ankle. Am I wrong?

why is the front crease line runing /\ instead of ||?
I have my tablet sitting at the window sill real plump und the camera set to 10 seconds
posaune

Sprechen du Deutsch? Ich speche ein bisschen.

Not sure why the tilt, just the way it wanted to lay wren pressing.

Here is the second fitting. How is the camera height and vertical reference?







28
Patternmaking Reference / Re: Rundschau Trousers 1959 - English (Kelner)
« Last post by theresa in tucson on January 18, 2019, 09:47:40 AM »
Greger, a former boss once taught me how to proofread.  He said read things backwards line by line.  Reading backwards slows down the brain long enough for error recognition.  Good point on double spacing the lines.

Theresa in Tucson
29
Patternmaking Reference / Re: Rundschau Trousers 1959 - English (Kelner)
« Last post by Greger on January 18, 2019, 09:40:21 AM »
When redoing written stuff it is easy to make errors, and when looking for errors, miss them. The OCA programs save a *tremendous amount of time*, but none of them are with out some errors. Finding the errors, it is so easy to miss some. It is like the mind wants to go numb. In the past, when I've done this, is print with line spaces. Cross out the errant word and use the space above to write the correct word.  Turn the computer back on and make all the corrections. Reading later I'll find some more errors, and later again some more. If I look few months later, "Oh my." some more errors.

*When someone gives these out for free he/she is a very kind person. Or, dumbly passionate.
30
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: First time drafting trousers.
« Last post by posaune on January 18, 2019, 04:13:52 AM »
why is the front crease line runing /\ instead of ||?
I have my tablet sitting at the window sill real plump und the camera set to 10 seconds
posaune
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10