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Patternmaking Reference / To all who have posted images on Postimage
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on October 13, 2018, 12:06:11 AM »
Hi all,

I have gone through all my posts in this section and refreshed the image URLs so that they work and are visible.

This applies only to the Postimage URLs.  About this time last year?? Postimage changed three tiny letters in its image URLs:

Like this:

After you click "Modify", the images are shown as a long string of characters. Within the string if you see the following -

"postimg.org" it needs to be changed to "postimg.cc"  This happens 2 times in every image URL, they both need to be done.


"[url  =https://postimg.org/sv2fr8Dj]  [/url]"

Must be changed to this:

[url  =https://postimg.cc/sv2fr8Dj]   [/url]

Its not too hard though it is Tedious.

G
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on October 10, 2018, 04:10:34 PM »
I would recommend this, with any of my translations:

Copy the text into a word document.  Anything that looks like a table probably was in my original. So you can put it back in a table.  Then download the images, copy the jpg files and paste them into the word document in the same place as the they are in the forum. You can alter the size so that the images are more clear.

then you have a nice little copy of the article for your own private study.  You could print it off, as I have done and have a great little reference.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on October 10, 2018, 03:59:48 PM »
Ha ha, I have just realised that I misinterpreted one of peterle's comments.  He also said that you could still get the templates "til today". I thought he meant that "until recently" you could get them.  But your use of til is inclusive. He he.

G :)
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by posaune on October 10, 2018, 06:55:37 AM »
Well , Spookietoo, it is so, that one figure problems seldom comes alone. They have shown here how to act for more then one problem, which is very common.
My example: I'm overweight, I have a spondylosis at the back, right hanging side lowered 2 cm (compared to the left), bend very forward.  #
You see there is much what I must consider to alter in my pattern.  Because of the bending forward my CF is realtively short compared to the CB. _ Means look to the balance_. Check if the circs are right. Proceed to the lengths. And very difficult is the fit for the space inside the pattern for the body. The key is:  slowly doing the alterations- one after the other and redo it if it was not the right way. And do it exact and with patience. And never do it alone!
My last grain of wisedom found out for me (we try to develop a more Custom tailored friendly system - that means for us sewing many muslins): my forward bent body (and neck )needs a deeper back neck as normal. In a normal draft I go up for back neck hole about 2 cm. But I need 3. Otherwise the balance is not good. (My shoulder angle is 24° - normally it is about 21°)
These translated articles from Schneiderfrei show how to use a draft for bodies whose are not  "proportional" - using a proportional draft. And you know when there is a difference between theoretical and measured you know you have a problem and in which direction you must look.
lg posaune
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by spookietoo on October 10, 2018, 06:14:21 AM »
Thank you Schneiderfrei for posting all of this information. I have reached the conclusion that my various fitting issues deviate so far from the "norm' that I need to study all of these issues to decide what needs to apply as accommodations for excessively full chests on women (along with the "plus size" descriptor). These problems do not seem to be very well defined in tailoring circles. This is most likely due to the overwhelming variety of issues that arise as a result of the various problems.

Basically, every little bit helps.

Thank you!
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by TTailor on October 09, 2018, 10:15:38 PM »
Thank you so much for all this work.
Looking forward to reading it through more closely.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by pfaff260 on October 09, 2018, 04:15:51 PM »
What a lot of work! Thank you.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by Greger on October 09, 2018, 07:38:10 AM »
Thanks Schneiderfrei. That is a lot of work.
Thanks Peterle.
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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by posaune on October 09, 2018, 06:39:08 AM »
you can do this till today
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein/schnittmuster-slim-fit-sakkogrundschnitt/
(not every good tailor is (was) a good cutter)
and here something without to pay
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/schlips-und-co/ :-)
lg
posaune
It is a long time ago I went to their page. You look at
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein
there are 23 pages full of interesting stuff if you like that

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Patternmaking Reference / Re: Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on October 08, 2018, 09:14:52 PM »
Thank you posaune,

That is a great reference about the "Herrgottle".  I remember reading this term before.

The translation was difficult, mostly because it was quite repetitive (schrecklich mühsam).  But, I could see that it was telling a great story about how the patterns work.

I would recommend anyone working through the process as it is described.

Peterle says that the draft described in Diagram 36 was actually available to be purchased from Mueller and sons.  I would expect that many workshops would not have purchased them but produced their own.

G
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