Author Topic: Men's Trouser Fit Check  (Read 6128 times)

posaune

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #30 on: October 20, 2016, 12:42:12 AM »
Yes, I would draft with smaller hip value at the back than in the front    1 cm more in front and - 1 cm in back. You shove your body into front.
You can do this if you have enough s.a. in the back crotch seam
That's one of the reasons to have about 4 cm s.a. at back crotch seam at the waist tapper to 1 cm where the curve starts.
lg
posaune


Henry Hall

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #31 on: October 20, 2016, 09:04:17 AM »
The new pattern won't be bigger than the ones already cut.

peterle

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #32 on: October 20, 2016, 08:31:32 PM »
You can also just pin posauneīs wedge to see the effect.

In any case the lower inlay at your back seam will influence the appearence of the back seam, because it will pull. when you look at posauneīs sketch, you can see the wider inlay at the back seam starts at the curve and not below.

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #33 on: October 22, 2016, 12:01:08 AM »
You can also just pin posauneīs wedge to see the effect.


Here is the fit with a 3/4" wedge pinned out:









For comparison, here is the fit with no wedge and the waistband lowered 3/4" at CB, tapered to nothing at the side seams:









Thoughts?

« Last Edit: October 28, 2016, 05:33:35 AM by jruley »

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #34 on: October 29, 2016, 01:04:09 PM »
Same as last set, but with some of the surplus material taken out of the crotch seam:









peterle

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #35 on: October 29, 2016, 08:31:28 PM »
I think the version with the pinned wedge hangs more balanced than the other version.(especially to be seen at calf level and the hems donīt cling to the heels)
In the pinned version it is obvious that the undersides are yet too wide.   You can remove the superflous width at the crease line by pinning or basting to get an impression.

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #36 on: October 30, 2016, 12:02:57 PM »
OK, so let's go with the wedge then.
Here is the pattern change I made to remove the wedge.  Blue = old, red = new.  I did not attempt to reduce the back width in the same step, because I'm not sure where it needs to come out:



I ripped the trousers apart down to the knees and pressed the upper backs flat.  I marked the new edges, put back the darts at the new locations, and reassembled the trousers.  Here is the result.  Obviously there is still some looseness in the back - should it be removed at the side seam or the crotch?








peterle

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #37 on: October 30, 2016, 11:36:16 PM »
Is there a lot of inlay in the seat seam especially in the curve area? maybe it is pulling?

in my eyes you could move the fork point about 2 cm inwards. then use the paper pattern as a template and redraw the seat line pivoting the pattern at the waist and aiming to the new fork point.
do the same with the inseam pivoting at the hem.

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #38 on: October 31, 2016, 04:10:45 AM »
Is there a lot of inlay in the seat seam especially in the curve area? maybe it is pulling?

The pattern picture shows the extent of the inlay (the pink area beyond the marked seat seam).

Quote
in my eyes you could move the fork point about 2 cm inwards. then use the paper pattern as a template and redraw the seat line pivoting the pattern at the waist and aiming to the new fork point.
do the same with the inseam pivoting at the hem.

I will give that a try.  Obviously the seat inlay will need to be reduced in the new curve.

tombennett

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #39 on: October 31, 2016, 05:00:12 AM »
Stretching the inlay with your iron will help it sit down nicely, not sure if it is sitting up inside.

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #40 on: October 31, 2016, 05:14:19 AM »
Here is peterle's proposed alteration (green lines), if I understand correctly.

« Last Edit: October 31, 2016, 12:28:48 PM by jruley »

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #41 on: October 31, 2016, 12:27:42 PM »
So here we are with the alteration shown in the last post (#40).   I followed Tom's advice and stretched the fork inlay after marking the new seat seam line.

Obviously this is much better in the seat.









peterle

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #42 on: October 31, 2016, 09:15:51 PM »
I think itīs better now.

In this pics you wear the trousers a bit lower at the left hip, what you didnīt in most of the other posts. Maybe thatīs why there are folds at the left leg? You could take some balance measures to identify a high/low hip.

Will the topsides be a bit too tight at the hips when you close the fly line? That could cause gaping pockets. would be nice to see some pics with bent forearms to see the run of the side seam tops.

jruley

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #43 on: November 01, 2016, 12:38:47 AM »
In this pics you wear the trousers a bit lower at the left hip, what you didnīt in most of the other posts. Maybe thatīs why there are folds at the left leg? You could take some balance measures to identify a high/low hip.

My left hip is probably a little lower/smaller (see posts #1 and #22). 

Quote
Will the topsides be a bit too tight at the hips when you close the fly line? That could cause gaping pockets.

Assuming that is the case - is the cure more width in the fronts at the side seams?







peterle

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Re: Men's Trouser Fit Check
« Reply #44 on: November 01, 2016, 08:57:54 PM »
The left leg side seam looks ok to me. The right top side side seam could probably need a bit more width at the hip. just open the side seam from the waistline downwards a bit over the fork line keeping the waistband attached, and look how much it is gaping (if any).

Please take balance measurements for the hips. the pics arnīt trustworthy enough, because you wear the trousers differently. In classical trousers the waistline seam should sit on top of your hip bones, the waistband above. measure the distances of both hip bones to the floor, and compare to be sure.