Author Topic: Collar Band Fitting Problem  (Read 1295 times)

Schneiderfrei

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Collar Band Fitting Problem
« on: October 04, 2016, 10:18:12 AM »
Hello all,

I would like to request help for this collar band fitting problem.  It has bothered me over a couple of attempts.

The shirt is the late 1950's Rundschau. It fits well enough for my friend.   I originally drafted the collar according to the given draft but it looked a little like this.



The image above is actually re-drafted and replaced with the modern draft from Rundschau that Schneidergott showed on the CandT.

It does the same thing, the ends of the collar band point down after they overlap.

I cannot think it through: is the problem with the band itself or with the neck hole or with the amount of overlap?

(The little pucker at the right shoulder seam is my fault during the replacement but the original problem looked the same)


Henry Hall

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Re: Collar Band Fitting Problem
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2016, 11:30:39 AM »
I'd suggest that the buttonhole is quite far from the edge, so the end of the band (carrying on travelling in that downward curve to the front) is buckling the top of the placket which is the place it will give.

I'm a shirt amateur though.

lepus

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Re: Collar Band Fitting Problem
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2016, 12:44:01 PM »
Hello all,

I would like to request help for this collar band fitting problem.  It has bothered me over a couple of attempts.

[...]

I cannot think it through: is the problem with the band itself or with the neck hole or with the amount of overlap?

(The little pucker at the right shoulder seam is my fault during the replacement but the original problem looked the same)

For me the top edge of the mandarin collar is too far away from the neck and has too much length. Two reasons: 1. front neck opening is too far down for the figure and perhaps too wide; 2. collar is not curved enough in front section or curved in wrong places.
Check 2 by pinning away 2 or 3 small darts from top edge to bottom edge in section between yoke shoulder and centre front to curve it more and see if this helps; collar will become slightly flatter by this.
Check 1 by fitting the collar separately and see where it wants to sit; check if that is congruent with where shirt neckline is. Can't see enough of neck of figure, but I could imagine natural neckline to sit just a bit below button, where I see ridge of seam allowance — is speculation though.
Hope my thoughts are understandable, no time to draw anything.

peterle

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Re: Collar Band Fitting Problem
« Reply #3 on: October 04, 2016, 09:43:40 PM »
my observations are:

It seems the yoke/ whole back side part of the neckhole is bulging ? There are slight  diagonal folds beginning at the front yoke seam near the neckhole and heading outwards.
The left and right yoke seam donīt lie symmetrical on the body. the right yoke seam is much higher.

The left side of the shirt/collar is a bit off. the collar is standing away at the neck and there is a pulling line  from the  middle of the shoulder to the neck seam.(This pulling line pulls the CF outwards, the button hole stand is not vertical anymore. the collar band is fixed by the button and therefor the deformation takes place below the band) Probably the shirt is not wide enough in this area. You can try to open the left yoke seam  for several cm an see wether the seam gapes.

My speculation is, the yoke (at least at the left shoulder) should be shifted outwards for 1cm at the front yoke seam. Thus you could get rid of the slight diagonal folds of the yoke and the stressed area at the front that causes your problem. it should alos clean up the back around the neckline.


Schneiderfrei

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Re: Collar Band Fitting Problem
« Reply #4 on: October 04, 2016, 09:56:37 PM »
Thank you very much for your comments, I am afraid I don't think I have any other photos, sorry. 

Thank you Henry I did suspect that too but I can't imagine that would be the only problem. 

Thank you Lepus.  These are some great ways to think about the problem.  Yes it could be the neck is too deep.  I am not past making that kind of mistake :(

Wow, Peterle that is also the kind of thing I was wondering about.  Could that problem make the band turn down like that?  I guess it could.

Ok, I have some work to do.

G