Author Topic: Women's Pants toile fit check  (Read 4814 times)

peterle

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #60 on: February 03, 2017, 02:03:50 AM »
Yes, the side view of the sit of waist band is nothing you would be proud off. But hem hem a higher set waistband in front does not flatter us over the fiffties ladys, Peter.

Oh I see....
So itīs better style to leave it as is? ( I think under belly waistband wonīt be an option as well?)

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #61 on: February 03, 2017, 03:48:17 AM »
yes exactly. Not a underbelly waistband like men uses - it is just a bit lower than real waist so that the upper body appears longer. The waistband is contoured - so very comfortable.
The side view of the waist band: It is perfect, when the CB is the highest point, and then it sinks slowly down to the CF. In this pics you see that it goes up from CB to side seam and then sinks down to CF.
If you have it higher in CB you prevent a "Mauerer decolltee (means decolltee of a brick layer - there may be an english expression)".
Lg
posaune

theresa in tucson

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #62 on: February 03, 2017, 05:16:41 AM »
Posaune, in American it is referred to as "plumber's butt", :D, but you have the right idea.  Jay, you are on the right track having the waist higher at the back than the front.

Theresa in Tucson

hutch--

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #63 on: March 10, 2017, 09:40:13 PM »
He he, we have a similar expression here in OZ. Track pants and stubbies worn half mast with the waistband at about hip level which shows the top half of their behind. The high back along side a generally higher waistband makes these thing fit a lot better and are a lot more comfortable to wear.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #64 on: March 11, 2017, 12:18:29 PM »
Australians are familiar with "Brickies Crack", a little too familiar actually.

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #65 on: March 16, 2017, 11:38:41 AM »
Finally got these finished, here are the results:









I think they fit pretty well, but somehow she feels they are "too big".  So I need to try posaune's suggestions from #58 for the next pair.  Unless of course posaune has more ideas after seeing these pictures...

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #66 on: March 17, 2017, 12:43:02 AM »
First ask her how she feel inside the pants and where she thinks you could take away. The pants fits nice for me but it may look a bit like a potatoe sack for a critical self. That is because it is made from linen. As I wrote; you are now fighting with fabric factor. Linen pants are cut mostly with just a bit of shaping and best with straight legs. (looks swell on ladies with legs up to the chin) Linen is heavy and has a heavy drape. They tend to do grow sitting on the body. I sew an "Eckenband" into back crotch seam so it will not hang down. As you can see at front crotch there is already a little plus forming, which is maybe the point of her critique. Here you could pin out about 1 cm down to hem.
You make a pants look slimmer if you alter the knee width. The shaping is done from knee to bum. But it is crucial and like opening a can of worms.  Easly it is overdone and you have to alter the back crotch angle and length too.
lg
posaune

jruley

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #67 on: March 17, 2017, 11:05:36 AM »
First ask her how she feel inside the pants and where she thinks you could take away.

I think the main issue is too much ease at the hip, but this is where we added it so the pants weren't tight when sitting down.  So what can I do?


As you can see at front crotch there is already a little plus forming, which is maybe the point of her critique. Here you could pin out about 1 cm down to hem.

Do you mean pin width out of the leg seam, or the front seam?

Thanks,
Jim

posaune

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Re: Women's Pants toile fit check
« Reply #68 on: March 17, 2017, 06:59:22 PM »


The red line shows how to decrease the ease. Sewing  0.5 cm besides the outer seam (same distance from waist down to hem) you take out 2 cm ease over the hip. if needed more. (Because it is linen maybe it has grown. After washing it will be smaller and grow again when worn).

The green line shows how to make the pants legs smaller (same hem circ as before).  But careful it takes out at thighs and if real tight you need more length at back to sit down because there is no reserve in the thighs anymore.
lg
posaune
the blue line is how you can get rid of the little folds under the zip. Pin the fold and measure it. Cut and rotate close about what you measured. True the curve.