That's pretty interesting Greger, its not that sophisticated, of course, but a great reference.
Its not supposed to be sophisticated. Its really just a bunch of hints. Most of it is aimed at that time period. Even the pattern system isn't to be taken seriously. Some would be appalled if you used it. You are supposed to create your own ideas of a shirt. They were very careful not to step on toes of the best shirt makers. They left a huge amount of latitude to chase whatever decade of shirt you want, and other garments in the category of the shirt maker. If you look to the philosophy it is very open. The minute details is only part of what the book is about. Since those details are always changing they're not the basic thoughts of shirt making. If you can understand the excitement of the garment of the time period, you should be able to do a fair job in making it. Of course, a few details help, but not always necessary, because, each of the best pursue their own way to create it. You have to remember, the author could have started making shirts in the 1840s, or, even sooner. His main instructor could have started sooner than the 1780s, which influenced his thinking, not to mention, other tailors. His thinking isn't just from the1890s. You can read about balance at least as far back as 2,000 BC, which is taken into consideration for all upper garments to be made (which is only one detail among many). One time I brought a pattern system to Hostek, because I wanted to know how to adapt it to fit someone (should have only brought the draft without the system). He noticed the system wasn't mine. Ever see an old man become furious? Well, you should have been there. He never did explain why I went asking. Someone else's pattern system is someone else's art work. That is the only person to use it. Can't really call yourself an artist copying someone else's work, so, not a tailor. I had grab that, because it was handy, and I didn't know if he believed that, as some don't. As far as history goes, a young man asked my grandad how to make a pattern that he brought. It had two or three numbers on it as a guide for size. So you draw that. Then it gets graded up or down to size (how many tailors grade right on the cloth?). Then the figurations. Add the inlays and cut. Canvases are very different on those coats. Anyway, he explained the whole without hesitation, from beginning to end. Answering questions when asked. History is a resource. Grandad's coats were not like others, and yet, modern. The best tailors are thinkers, not copiers. So, skip the period details, and look for the other details he wrote (they are far more interesting). He obviously expects the reader to know more.