If you compare the photos here with the photos of the previous project toile, you'll see that they are almost identical and thus the same remedies are likely to apply.
I would throw the M & I Kim book into the fire and start with a better draft.
With respect, I disagree. I did not go back to the original draft, but applied the grade to the finished sloper pattern which already has been adjusted for scoliosis and a dropped shoulder. So the M&I Kim draft, like any other, is merely a starting point. A different starting point might need different adjustments, but the result would be just as dependent on the skill (or lack thereof) of the fitter.
And in any case, the book would not burn well in my wood stove, and can always be used as a doorstop
I offer a simple challenge to those who think the textbook is at fault here. Select a convenient chest size (yours or otherwise) and draft the close-fitting and "classic fit" slopers. Then take your favorite proportional shirt drafting system (Rundschau or otherwise) and do that draft using the same measurements. It would be interesting to see how much they differ, and we might all learn something.
Reading posaune's comments, it occurred to me that the root cause might be too much curvature in the front yoke seams. So here I have straightened them, which seems to have largely taken the "pagoda shape" out of the shoulder. This still left the CF standing off my neck in front, so I have pinned a couple of small darts in the front neck line. These will not be sewn, but material will be taken out by folding the pattern (what I meant by straightening the shoulders). This seems to be pulling the top of the button stand back into its desired place.
I see one remaining issue. In the side views the chest and waist lines are not horizontal, but are higher in front than back. This would indicate a balance issue, but the shirt fits well (I think) around the neck and scyes. This slant will only be visible in fabrics that have a strong horizontal element, like plaids. So, should I address it (possibly adding length above the chest line in front and reducing a corresponding length in back)? Or is something more complicated required, like adding and removing wedges?
Or is it worth the trouble?