Author Topic: Sleeve fit  (Read 2441 times)

posaune

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Sleeve fit
« on: June 23, 2016, 09:54:01 PM »
While refreshing  my grading stuff I came to an article which may be interesting  you in this summer let down. Before you start to grade you must check the sleeve and the armhole if they fit to another because mistakes here will multiply.

First I looked how the sleeve fit into the armhole and laid the sleeve over the pattern like shown. In front it should fit from notch to side seam 100%.
Which it did.
The back should fit 1/2 of the distance. Which it did not. I filled it out - see red line.
Then  I measured  Armhole circ and Sleeve cap circ. My calculations gave me 10.5 ease.  Too much.
I want 8 % . So I have to reduce my sleeve circ about 1.5 cm   I took out on 2 places.  I cut and rotated close
Draw my cap new and it measures now 45.0. It was 46.4. Okay with me.
lg
posaune




Schneiderfrei

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2016, 10:30:45 PM »
Does that mean that the front of the sleeve is sewn without any fullness but the back has some fullness worked in?

lepus

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2016, 12:20:31 AM »
Does that mean that the front of the sleeve is sewn without any fullness but the back has some fullness worked in?

Surely not? What posaune illustrated (in my opinion) was that in the lower part of armscye, roughly from the front notch to halfway the back notch the sleeve is attached to the armhole without ease. Above those marks ease is incorporated according to design and nature of the fabric. Here she has chosen 8% ease. Some fabrics, e.g. your typical shirt fabric, will not tolerate that much ease without puckers and folds, so the maximum amount of crown ease is determined by the characteristics of the fabric.
posaune showed a method to reduce the ease in the crown; other methods are available.

As it happens, I'm re-studying Morris Campbell's excellent treatise on the subject, but I'm using computer modelling instead of the engineers' development method he used, so at the moment I'm absorbed in armholes and sleeves...

How refreshing to have a different subject here for a change.

Henry Hall

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2016, 01:21:25 AM »
It's an open mike here squire. No-one's stopping you from freshening the content.

theresa in tucson

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2016, 07:24:03 AM »
Posuane, those are very good pictures of a sleeve.  I think I'm going to do some tinkering with one of my blouse patterns and see if I can come close to the front and back curve illustrated.  My Big 4 patterns all seem to have sleeves where the front and the back are almost the same, so much so that if they are not marked, easily mistaken.

posaune

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2016, 06:22:02 AM »
@Theresa, the sleeve cap depens on the armhole , so if those pattern work, it maybe the case that the front and back cap are nearly the same. This is not the case with my armholes. The back ist much bigger and longer than the front and it is egg shaped. Even with a knit fabric I have them shaped. Here are my 3 basic one piece set in sleeves.



@Schneiderfrei : I attach a pic where you can see how the ease is calculated and how and where you are supposed to ease in. Do not hesitate to ask, you know my english....



.. If you are friendly to the user you can do your pattern already with the ease well distributed. And the user can sew from notch to notch and the right sleeve goes in like the left.


lg
posaune



hutch--

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2016, 11:30:16 AM »
posaune,

Thanks for these designs, one day I will know enough to hang a sleeve properly.
The magnificent tools of the professional tailor
http://www.movsd.com/tailors_shears/  ;) ;D

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #7 on: June 26, 2016, 11:49:52 AM »
Thanks for that posaune, I had not known that the part sewn without ease extended into the back at all.  I had thought it was only from the side seam forward.

posaune

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #8 on: June 26, 2016, 05:48:33 PM »
Schneiderfrei,
If the fabric and the sleeve cap and the armhole work well together you have up to 0.5 cm ease there in the lower back part.
If not and it is not so much to recut the sleeve you can ease in more. But it is only a rescue action.
lg
posaune

Schneiderfrei

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Re: Sleeve fit
« Reply #9 on: June 26, 2016, 11:43:46 PM »
You see, this is why I think that trousers are easier than shirts :)