I have a question for the experts. On a two piece sleeve where should the front seam on underarm be? I'm working with a McCall's Palmer and Pletsch pattern and on my first muslin the underarm seam lined up with my forefinger when my arms are relaxed at my side. I made another sleeve and added a fabric wedge to the top sleeve and subtracted from the under sleeve so the seam lines up with my thumb. I have a high round back, sloping shoulders and a moderate forward shoulder so I always need to rotate a sleeve a bit to remove wrinkles. None of my tailoring books say anything about this.