I don't quite understand the drafting system used here because normally the points like the natural waist are measured beforehand and are factored into the draft. Like e.g. on a waistcoat where you measure from neck to natural waist, and then to full length. You can't have it yo-yo-ing up and down willy-nilly.
Peterle asked where the draft placed the waist line, so I indicated it on the toile (red line). This is a "proportionate" location, so it will obviously from person to person.
That point of the waist will be important when you suppress with darts because if you end up suppressing too low (over the hips) the lower half will look a complete wreck. Too high and it will be tight. In Photo three above, you can see that the there is a point of the rear dart where it is deeper above the red horizontal line.
The book calls for the deepest suppression to be 1" above the waist line (which suggests it is not the "true" waist line). From the photos it looks like I need to go even higher as peterle observed. These are very shallow darts, so some of what you are seeing may just be imprecise pinning - I certainly tried to get the deepest point on the red line.
Are you planning to have front darts on a shirt for yourself, or is this for a woman's garment?
There would be little point in trying a woman's garment on my body. I assure you that my wife is a completely different shape
To understand the style, you need to follow the link in the first post, or the blue chalk lines in the last picture set.
The finished shirt will have eight pieces in the body: the yoke, two fronts, two front sides, two back sides, and the center back. I want to run the seams all the way to the edges for a cleaner finish.